Planting Trees & Shrubs 101

A few months ago there was a great cover story in the Gardener News about “Mulched Volcanoes”. The article depicted one of the many inaccuracies or misconceptions about how people incorrectly install plant material. Far too often plant material is set into the ground either too high or below grade. Various mulches are used as decorative coverings at a depth, in some cases, of 8-10 inches. Now that the weather is breaking, I thought it be helpful to point out some basic mechanics of how to properly install and care for our green friends.

One of the first things any good garden will have is a plan. Don’t be capricious about placing your larger, future plant material. Leave the bright colors of annuals for your more whimsical plantings. Consideration for sunlight and proximity to surroundings should always be at the forefront of your decision making. Take notice of water issues that are either too wet or too dry and always consider Deer! They simply will punish you if you don’t plan for them.

The debate as to which is better to plant, B&B (Balled and Burlapped) materials or containerized plants will always be a hot topic filled with opinions predicated on past experiences. Either way, the mechanics of slipping the root system back into the ground are the same. Today’s popular belief is to dig a hole slightly larger than twice the size of the root ball. Consider amending your native soil with new top soil, humus or well-rotted leaf compost. Large quantities of humus can help cure heavy clay soil and fast draining sand while making your plants feel as though they are having a spa day. The depth of the hole should not be any deeper than the root ball itself. “It is better to plant slightly higher rather than lower than the tree was growing prior to the move” (Rutgers Cooperative Extension). B&B trees should have the top of the burlap either folded back or I like to cut the top half off all together. Burlap that is not folded or cut off can wick moisture away from the plant. Larger B&B trees will have a wire basket around the root ball. If possible, cut the top half of the cage off. DO NOT TRY TO WRESTLE THE CAGE OFF FROM THE ROOT BALL! This will only create a sloppy root mass and potentially harm the tree, diminishing the success of the tree. The mechanics above should only be done after you have decided that the tree will no longer be moved around. This includes finding the best side of the tree and rotating the ball to that position. After all is said and done, remember to mulch around your plant material at a depth of 2 to 3 inches keeping the mulch away from the bark of the plant. Stake larger plant material and avoid getting too close with the lawn mower or treading to heavily over the root systems.

Deep watering is also important. Sprinkler systems only target the top few inches of soil line. Don’t rely too heavily on them unless you have specific zones for landscape beds and zones for turf. The best way to water plants is to apply it at a rate that the soil will absorb without runoff.

When you select plants this spring remember to select well proportioned plants. Avoid root balls that are abnormally small, dented or loose from the plant. By the same token, containerized material should not have roots spiraling around the top of the pot or have roots growing out the drainage holes on the bottom of the pot. Inspect the foliage and limbs of plant material. Bright, healthy looking foliage is what you’re after. Plants that are losing leaves, turning yellow or brown or look fatigued or stressed should be avoided. You spend the time weekly to inspect produce at a supermarket so be discriminating on your plant purchases as well. After all your plant purchase will last far longer than a meal will.

Finally, remember that April 27, the last Friday in April, is Arbor Day. Hopefully this article will inspire you to become a “Tree Hugger.” Take the time to further your education and visit Arborday.org. The website provides great tips, including tree care and planting as well as a terrific identification guide. The National Arbor Day Foundation currently has on their site 10 free trees when you become a member. An incentive to help contribute to the 8.5 million trees members planted last year.

All Plants Are Not Created Equal

All plants are not created equal! Deciduous ornamentals, coniferous evergreens, herbaceous perennials and broadleaf evergreens all have their own cultural differences. Plants are not dissimilar to people in that they too have circulatory systems that need to absorb nutrients in order to thrive. Just as people who are in good health tend to resist illness, plants that start out healthy are more capable to fight disease and resist insect problems. There is an enormous amount of attention given to raising our “green friends” and the equation to bring them to fruition is an exciting challenge.

With an increasing demand for premium plant material and the realization that ours is an industry dealing with perishable commodities, at the mercy of Mother Nature, it’s no wonder that the cost of producing such a product has increased. Going forward, there needs to be more of an appreciation for the production of plants as it takes an average of eight years to produce a marketable plant for the garden. Much more is involved than simply buying a liner, sticking it in a pot and waiting for a return on your money.

The ability to produce premium plant material is truly an art form. The creation of a plant’s life and understanding the behavioral aspects of different kinds of plants is an arduous task to say the least. First there is the research, science and luck of finding new plants. Plant hunters scour the globe, record locations and wait patiently to return during the dormant season to collect a sample. Plant hardiness is determined through a series of tests judging the adaptability to extremes in heat, cold, moisture, drought and direct sunlight. The challenge of mass producing a plant at an affordable price is a priority on every growers mind. There are different techniques used to produce plants. Air layering is a method developed by the Chinese to produce roots on the stem for more difficult to root plants. Grafting is the process of connecting two different plants (scion wood and rootstock) so they grow as one. Most of the beautiful Japanese maples you see in garden centers for sale have been grafted. Tissue culture takes a piece of a plant (such as a stem tip, node, embryo or seed) and places it in a sterile, nutrient medium where it multiplies. These are just a few ways that have helped plants become stronger and more consistent.

Propagating plants is only part of the battle. Progressive growers have found ways, through science, to enhance a plants performance, offering a competitive advantage. Advanced fertilizers, organic companions and suitable growing environments all affect costs, but the results speak for themselves. Regular nitrogen fertilizers can cost one quarter of what a slow release fertilizer can. Mycorrhizae fungi are beneficial organisms that grow along roots of host plants, enlarging the roots’ surface-absorbing area helping the plant’s uptake of nutrients and water. This helps reduce transplant shock, environmental stress, soil borne diseases and pathogens. Equations are also considered for spacing plants so that sunlight hits all sides, finishing a plant properly. Finally, the growing environments today are futuristic. Heated floors encourage roots to establish more quickly. Temperature and wind sensitive gauges retract the ceiling of Cravo systems (advanced glass greenhouses) helping to protect and create the most perfect plant material possible.

Although strides have been made for creating more consistent, durable and attractive plants, the attention towards finishing an almost perfect product has made it more labor intensive. Just as a parent is never finished raising their children, so to are gardeners never finished maintaining their plants. Pruning and feeding are two disciplines that are never fully finished. The decision of your purchase should not merely amount to dollars and cents. Branching structure, tree caliper, overall body, plant health, root development and cosmetic differences are just a few variables which can affect the cost of a plant. Suffice to say, a rhododendron grown by one grower is not the same as one grown by another.