To cut, or not to cut, that is the question:

Perhaps the most famous line in English literature, Hamlet’s greatest soliloquy, inspired a sort of play on words for this title. Often asked when is the proper time to cut back ornamental grasses in the garden, I can’t help but think of Shakespeare’s words every time.

Ornamental grasses are a group of plants that I have come to love and use over the years. For me, their artistic movement offers a calming affect every time I see them in mass. Offering incredible interest year round, housing for wildlife and virtually carefree once established, ornamental grasses are also as close to “deer proof” as you’re going to get. So why do so many cut back their grasses in the late fall rather than late winter or early spring? My guess has always been because some believe them to be unsightly or unkempt if they don’t do so.

Amended soils at the time of planting and some mulch to help keep them moist are about all you need to keep your grasses happy. Most ornamental grasses are perennial, meaning they will come back every year, and should be cut back in late March, before the new growth appears. Failure to do this would delay new growth and the appearance of the grass. Moreover, when you cut your grasses back too soon, the end of autumn, you deprive wildlife the seeds and shelter they are looking for. Not to mention that the plant can no longer protect itself against the harsh elements of winter as you have denuded its dormant foliage. This dormant foliage will help shed water away from the clump, thus preventing rot. Aesthetically the winter foliage is attractive, in my opinion, offering seed heads affixed to a sort of swaying winter interest effect with wheat-colored markings throughout our coldest months in New Jersey.

When you go into the garden, at the right time of year to cut back your grasses make sure you arm yourself appropriately. One of the reasons, as I mentioned earlier, ornamental grasses are “deer resistant” is because they can be sharp. Make sure you have long pants, long sleeves and garden gloves on before you begin. Should you be blessed with a warm day in March and are eager to get your garden looking good, heed this advice! When you run your hands up the foliage or brush your legs and arms against their leaves you will thank me. For the most part a good pair of hand pruners should do the trick for single specimens. However, should you have larger groupings, I find a sickle, string trimmer or on tougher grasses even a chain saw will suffice. Something to note, some grasses develop such thick canes, loaded with silica that this could quickly dull even the sharpest of instruments.

During the months that your larger grasses are actively growing, I have found that peony rings help contain the plant, offering structure, while being concealed by the foliage. Conversely, when you go to cut down your grasses at the end of winter it is helpful to tie the heads with string as you can better see what you are cutting. This also helps with cleanup. The question I am also asked is how far back do you cut your grass? The simple answer is either two thirds of their full size or six to eight inches from the ground. Be mindful not to cut too closely to the ground, as most grasses will resent this. Finally, the issue of dividing and transplanting. Should you wish to make more plants or simply move a plant to another part of your garden, consider doing this as the new growth begins in the early spring.

Shakespeare’s words “To be, or not to be” in the literal sense relate to his own ideas of the meaning of life and death. Not taking lightly the seriousness of the topic, I have always found some comedic attachment to my thought of “To cut, or not to cut,” simply because if you cut too soon or too hard you could sacrifice the well being of your plant. Carefree plants that are deer resistant, easy maintenance, quick to root, available in assorted colors, many with attractive flower spikes… what more could you ask for?

Bon Appetite--I Think Not!

What won’t the deer eat? This is a question that I’m asked over and over again. My answer is unwavering. The more educated you are about deer resistant plants, the less of a selection the deer have. Plant materials that have thorns, odor or stiff branching aren’t always a sure thing. But it helps! I often say that if you’re hungry and you don’t like tuna fish and there’s nothing else to eat, you’ll eat tuna fish. The same holds true for deer. If all you have planted is barberry, spruce and juniper, you can bet their decision is simple. Either they starve or they eat TUNA FISH. However, having said this, there still seems to be one staple plant that our four legged friends have left alone. BOXWOOD!! Boxwoods

contain a toxic alkaloid that makes them unpalatable. Let me try to dispel the myth that all boxwoods are just green meatballs. There are currently some 160 registered cultivars of boxwood. While all boxwood shares the same texture, there are color differences, size and shape variations that will tantalize even the biggest skeptics.

Buxus sempervirens (common boxwood), has long been a staple for many existing and new landscapes. A plant that will stay in bounds as a foundation planting or prove that over time can be quite a handsome specimen is still just green. But there’s more out there to tempt us. Graham Blandy and Fastigiata are two upright, tight, pillar cultivars that lend themselves well for container gardening or as vertical accents for either side of a front door. Dee Runk is another upright, conical grower with lateral branching at about 45 degrees. Morris Dwarf, Morris Midget, and Green Pillow are just what you’d expect. Diminutive forms that are suitable for container and trough gardening. Grace Hendrick Phillips, Vardar Valley and Insularis are all spreading forms that vary in color from lime- green to bluish casts. And let’s not forget the bicolor boxwoods. Argenteo-variegata, Aureo-variegata, and Elegantissima offer whites and yellows mixed with green. I’ve saved the best for last. Buxus sinica v. insularis ‘Justin Brouwers’ is the undisputed heavy weight. Having narrow, dark green foliage, this mounding cultivar found in Williamsburg, VA. in the 1950’s is fantastic for edging or to showcase as a specimen in a small garden. This one has shown great promise and is among the darkest green, cold hardy cultivars I have seen so far.

Gardening is an ever changing equation. I recently drew my own landscape plan for a house my wife and I are currently building. My favorite plant list consisted of over 250 different plant varieties. Will I redraw, rethink and retool the existing FINISHED landscape plan. Almost certainly! Not because we’re uncertain of our choices, but because we won’t allow the deer to dictate what we plant. It’s trial and error. That’s what makes it such a great game. Use deer repellants, netting, ingenuity, and makeshift ideas to keep deer at bay. Remember, there is never just one absolute plant for one situation. Personal taste, budget and landscape topography will dictate your decision making process. Boxwoods are highly adaptable to soil conditions, lighting exposures and landscape footprints. As a family they are used extensively throughout the country. Whether it’s for mass plantings, foundation plantings, container gardening, hedge rows or for topiary use, boxwoods are there. Easily transplanted, these garden wonders prefer limestone soils and a haircut in late winter. Try to protect from drying winds and consider spraying them with an anti-desiccant in late fall. When used effectively, this group can act as a skeletal backdrop or foreground accent, for other companion plants, adding even more color and texture. The possibilities of this family are limited only by your imagination. Hopefully the boxwoods in your garden will keep our antler friends at bay for years to come.