Cathaya argyrophylla: An Endangered, Uncommon Conifer

John Stella (John Stella Horticultural Sales) is a friend, colleague and plant enthusiast whose vast botanical knowledge is not only encyclopedic, but seldom rivaled. John often refers to certain plants as “BIO Plants”, an acronym for Botanical Interest Only. His usage as an adjective is often out of fascination, admiration or trivial interest for plants. Hidden from the world until 1955, the genus Cathaya was virtually unknown and today still stumps the most inquisitive horticultural minds.

Imagine a trek, totaling several days, climbing mountainous terrain, in search of a rare conifer only to be met by bureaucratic resistance. Resistance layered with local police, the local tourist bureau, the forestry department, the public secretary bureau, the Mayor’s office, and the Chinese army. Known only as a fossil record from tertiary sediments in Eurasia, Cathaya was rediscovered in 1955 by Chinese scientists in southeastern Szechwan and has been found growing in parts of Hunan, Guangxi, and Guizhou. Jinfu Shan, the destination for our early explorers, was home for this extraordinary conifer. A member of the pine family (Pinaceae) this monotypic conifer (a sole member of its group or single species) seems to favor limestone outcrops and areas of heavy summer rain. Extremely rare in cultivation, this curious conifer has similarities to the following genus groups: Abies (fir), Picea (spruce), Tsuga (hemlock), Pseudotsuga (Douglas fir), Larix (larch), Cedrus (cedar) and Pinus (pines). An evolutionary marvel, Cathaya has its embryo and pollen resembling that of true pines (Pinus), its wood similar to Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga), and its overall habit and seed producing cones reciprocal to spruce (Picea).

After an arduous journey to the United States from the People’s Republic of China, we have Dr. James Waddick of Kansas City, Missouri to credit Cathaya’s arrival. Dr Waddick has been “Championed” for distributing Cathaya argyrophylla to the Western World. Forwarded from the offices of the Conifer Conservation Programme at the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh, the Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University and Iseli Nursery in Oregon were among the first to be bestowed with the treasures of Cathaya. Andre Iseli, former owner of Iseli Nursery, the conifer capital of the world, was determined to be the first person to acquire the seed of Cathaya. Since 1991, Iseli has received six different seed crops from various sources and in 1995 successfully germinated four seeds. From these four seeds, two remain at Iseli Nursery, one standing over six feet tall now. One continues to grow at Andre Iseli’s garden and the forth was auctioned at the Conifer Society in 2000 after being donated by Iseli Nursery.

The cold hardiness of the plant is still under review. Iseli Nursery, after successfully germinating several seeds from a 1998 crop, selflessly gifted twenty specimens to friends throughout the country. In an effort to determine the plants hardiness, Iseli only asked for feedback as to how the plant performs from region to region. Among the few to receive such a gift, I can say that the plant performs admirably in central New Jersey and has not been browsed by deer. Time will Tell! Aesthetic similarities include that of Sciadopitys (Umbrella Pine) and Cunninghamia (China fir) as its needles are long and wide.

The word argyrophylla literally means “silvery leaves”. The lush green leaves, in fact have a silver underbelly. Growing amongst such familiar plants as rhododendrons, cotoneaster and enkianthus the initial grove of Cathaya, standing some ten meters (thirty-three feet) must have had an indelible impression for the chosen few who first meet them. Despite the initial bureaucratic red tape those early plant hunters encountered, a call to the governor and some political pull not only allowed trespassing, but permitted the touch and photography of these historical creatures. “They have hid from the modern world until only recently. Pondering the pressure of more than six billion people and the pollution from our industrialized world, I wondered whether the trees would have been better off remaining hidden” (Pacific Horticulture 2001). Despite the efforts of footholds filled with concrete, rough areas that were smoothed over that would have served as grips and installing barriers of rock and concrete, the elevation of 5600 feet was reached. Through the mist and beyond the dense thicket of bamboo stood the grove of Yinshan (the Chinese name for Cathaya argyrophylla). Thankfully there are those among us who have the forward thinking to honor the past by protecting it and ensuring its survival by careful and thoughtful toils. Thank you to the People’s Republic for understanding that preservation can endure without simply hiding the truth and to Iseli Nursery for their cutting edge science and remarkable generosity to pay it forward.

Funky Genus

Edson Arantes do Nascimento, Reginald Dwight, Gordon Sumner, Agnes Gonxha Bojaxhiu and Norma Jeane Mortenson (Baker) all have achieved worldwide recognition. However, these five people are all better known by such names as Pele, Sir Elton John, Sting, Mother Teresa and Marilyn Monroe. It seems that their born names were not as catchy, desirable or fitting. The same can be said for the genus Funkia. A genus pressing more than 70 species of lily-like plants and native to northeast Asia, Funkia seems to have been replaced by the more popular name Hosta. And while the rejected generic name is still found in some older literature and the occasional trade publication of perennials, Hosta has for the last quarter century been more popular.

Those of you who grew up in Union County in the early 1970’s, particularly those involved with the garden center industry, no doubt remember two sisters in Scotch Plains who supplied perennials to a large number of nurseries. The “Ditzel Sisters” are remembered today as two women who would greet you in the morning with pancake batter on their sleeves and sell “Jersey Grown” perennials later in the day. With a cleverly conceived, segmented, garden spade that was quartered, they could outwork nearly anyone as they would dig and market their plants. Ditzel Farm was across from today’s Union County Votech and is sited here because they marketed and sold hosta, only they called it Funkia.

The etymology of Funkia comes from the work of Heinrich Christian Funck, a German botanist and pharmacist (1771-1839). Displaced later by Austrian physician and botanist Nicolaus Host (1761-1834) the genus name, first and last, has honored the works of both men. The word “Funky” has had its share of negative connotations, thus its Hosta’s turn in the sunlight. Or is it?

While the name is basking in the limelight, Hosta much prefers the canopy cover of deciduous counterparts and coniferous friends. Protected from hot afternoon sun, Hosta is happiest in filtered light and survives admirably in shade. Herbaceous perennial plants, hosta grow from corms or rhizomes and have broad lanceolate or ovate leaves. Leaves that range in size from one inch to over a foot and equal in width. Though typically thought of as a green plant, hosta can surprise with some tantalizing variegated forms and glaucous waxy leaf textures. Generally an easy, long lived plant, relatively free of disease and requiring little maintenance, just water and the occasional plant food, hosta does have a few enemies. Deer, slugs and snails seem to enjoy these broad-leaved friends of ours almost as much as we do. However, as we are enticed visually by the kaleidoscope of colors they have to offer, these predators are bellying up for a culinary feast.

With some three thousand + named and registered varieties already and an almost equal number hoping to become registered, the possibilities are staggering for this herbaceous perennial group. ‘Guacamole’ is a newer, fragrant cultivar offering huge, shiny, chartreuse green leaves with a pronounced blue edge. ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ has small gray-green leaves and a texture so thick you have to touch it to believe it’s not artificial. ‘Patriot’, a sport of ‘Francee’ has a dark green center with pronounced white outer markings which are sizably wider (1997 American Hosta Growers Hosta of the Year). ‘Frances Williams’ needs no introduction as it seems to be the most popular of the lot. Heavily corrugated foliage with blue-green and yellow margins keeps this at the top of my list. Finally, rounding out my short list of favorites is ‘Tattoo’. Introduced at the 1994 Atlanta Hosta Convention, this beauty has bright gold leaves, each tattooed with a green outline of a maple leaf in the center, topped off literally with lavender flowers in early summer.

As a proud, upstanding member of the Conifer Society it almost seems sacrilege to talk so prominently of the perennial kingdom. However, realizing that conifers can only be enhanced by the bold textures of deciduous ornamentals, annuals and perennials, I digress in the enjoyment that this genus is there to be enjoyed and showcase the kings of the plant world…Conifers. And I suppose visa versa. Webster’s Dictionary defines “funky” as having an earthy style and feeling. Apropos for the once named Funkia. Finally, there are a number of web sites supporting the genus. Those in particular are www.hosta.org (The American Hosta Society), www.hostalibrary.org (for great Hosta pictures) and www.hostahem.org.uk/ (British Hosta and Hemerocallis Society). Whether you call it Funkia, Hosta, Corfu Lily, Day Lily, Plantain Lily or the Japanese name Giboshi this genus offers enough variety to enhance any garden.

Monkey Puzzle?

In 1947 director Joseph L. Mankiewicz coupled Rex Harrison and Gene Tierney in a romantic-comedy The Ghost and Mrs. Muir. Previously a novel written by Josephine Leslie penned under the pseudonym R. A. Dick and later a television series from 1968 to 1970, this romantic story has captivated audiences for nearly sixty years. Gardeners have referenced the movie to me on numerous occasions citing the rhetoric between Mrs. Muir (Gene Tierney) and Mr. Coombs (Robert Coote). “What a hideous tree. Quite! What kind of tree is it? I believe it’s called a Monkey Puzzle tree. Why? Because it defies the efforts of monkeys to climb it I presume. Ruins the view! I’ll have it chopped down.” Referenced by adults to me as unusual, spiny, odd, and exotic and by kids as simply “Cool”, this tree has sparked interest and attempts to plant it rival the efforts of those who go to great lengths to protect their precious fig trees in the winter.
Academically hardy to zone 7, there are specimens found in central and north Jersey where we are clearly a zone 6. Sited properly in alcoves or away from wind tunnels, I have seen this coniferous evergreen, related to the indoor houseplant Norfolk Island Pine; do well even without the help of a burlap wall for winter protection. Specifically, our garden center in Berkeley Heights, New Jersey had a single specimen for over 10 years. Situated within a northwest corner alcove of our building, it simply outgrew its surroundings and sadly was taken down. However, as a good friend and mentor of mine, Jock Demme of Iseli Nursery, often says, “Like it for as long as you can.” We did!!
My introduction to this tree was some 15 years ago on a buying trip in the Pacific Northwest. Bouncing from nursery to nursery, hand picking our nursery stock for the following year, I drove past an enormous specimen, some 70 feet tall, with rope-like arms covered with spiny, leathery, razor sharp, triangular, green leaves. The leaves are affixed for some 10-15 years before being replaced. These horizontal, spreading branches grow in whorls and are evenly spaced in tiers. Branching some 30 feet across, this imposing tree was a handsome lawn specimen with a trunk that looked like the foot of an elephant, complete with dark gray-brown, wrinkled bark. Majestic in its stature this Monkey Puzzle tree is visited every year I return.
Araucaria araucana (Monkey Puzzle) was introduced during the late 1700’s. Native to the volcanic slopes in the Andes Mountains of Chile and Argentina, it is often referred to as a Chilean Pine. Broadly pyramidal and sometimes oval are mature outlines to look forward to. The most cold hardy of some 18 species, Monkey Puzzle enjoys full sun to part shade and well drained soil. Tolerant of winds and salt spray I have seen a hedge of these towards the Oregon coast. Monkey puzzle is dioecious (has separate male and female trees). Female trees produce a 6” egg-shaped cone that takes 2-3 years to mature. Notable to mention, female trees have been measured consistently larger than their male counterparts. The cones can contain 80-200 large, edible seeds and are used for medicinal purposes a well as a food source for people. Likened to the taste of pine nuts, these edible seeds can be eaten raw or cooked and are high in starch. The resin, incidentally, has been used in the treatment for ulcers and open wounds. Finally, the genus is said to be named after the Arauco Indians whose territory was amongst the natural stands of the species.

A Popular Misconception

One of the most popular questions I field during the spring is, “when is a good time to plant?” My answer… you can plant anytime, as long as you can break ground. Homeowners become weary and skeptical around this time every year. When our heat index rises and it becomes uncomfortable for more rigorous, outdoor yard work, it seems that zinnias, red fountain grass, other tropicals and larger pots of annual color dominate the public’s eye and fill temporary landscapes. The truth is there is a huge misconception between transplanting and planting new plant materials during the hot summer months.

Transplanting existing plant material and planting new plant material is entirely different. When you transplant, “take up an existing shrub and set again in another soil or location,” you must be very particular as to when you dig it out of the ground. There is an old adage that says you should never dig something out of the ground, that is established, in any month that does not have an “R” in the word. That leaves out May, June, July and August. The point being that it is easier and less stressful for plants to reestablish themselves during the cooler months of January, February, March, April, September, October, November and December. Yes, it is possible to transplant something in the dead of winter assuming that the ground is not entirely frozen. After all the plant is dormant.

Planting new trees and shrubs, setting our green friends in the ground to grow, seems to be most popular, in the northeast, during the months of April, May and June. Almost any garden center looks at Mothers Day weekend as their Superbowl or World Series of events. Garden centers will have as much product packed into their real estate as possible for the big event. The last frost date for most of New Jersey is around May 15^th. If you follow the lunar calendar, it’s the first full moon in May. This year that was May 16^th. Either way, if you benchmark Mother’s Day, as most do, you can plant tomatoes, basil, figs, azaleas or whatever safely. This year, Mother’s Day was May13th.

Spring plantings dominate the northeast, with our inclusion of annuals, perennials, vegetables, trees, shrubs and tropicals. Autumn seems to be a distant second, an after thought, only for the basics, i.e. azaleas, rhododendron, juniper and laurels as well as the more majestic conifers like spruce, hemlock and pine. That leaves roughly 90 days of good planting weather for you to develop your gardens. Availability seems to be the hardest obstacle to overcome in the warmer summer months. B&B (balled and burlap plant material) is case sensitive and is dug in cooler months. Once a garden center has gone through its allotment or inventory for the spring, it is hard to restock larger specimen plants. However, containerized plants are abundant during the warmer summer months and are at absolutely no risk of being installed during this time of year. Moreover, larger plants that were dug out of the ground at the right time of year also have no risk of being reinstalled or planted during warmer summer months as they were dug while they were dormant. The same logic still applies when planting in the spring, summer or fall. Sight your plants properly being cognizant of lighting conditions, deer issues and proximity to their surroundings. Just because it’s summer don’t water a plant everyday! Monitor the plant and check it two to three times a week for water. Over watering can be just as fatal as under watering.

There are exceptions to the rule, however, about transplanting trees within the months that have an “R”. There are fall digging hazards for a number of trees and thus it is suggested that the following types of trees be thoughtfully transplanted during February and March. Trident Maples, Birch, Hornbeams, Katsura’s, Redbuds, Hawthorns, Beech, Carolina Silverbells, Goldenraintrees, Sweetgums, Tuliptrees, Crabapples, Black Gums, Hophornbeams, Cherries, Pears, Oaks, Willows, Mountainash, Lindens, Chinese Elms and Zelkova’s have all been deemed dangerous for fall transplanting.

Planting trees and shrubs in the summer gives our green friends roughly four to six months to set their feet (roots) into the ground and become comfortable for our infamous Jersey winters. As you peruse nursery stock this summer be mindful that a standard 2-2.5” caliper tree that is balled and burlapped should have a 24” size root ball and weighs approximately 300 pounds. Container trees that are similar in size may be manageable enough for you to load into your SUV and be the weekend warrior you know you are.

Monkey See, Monkey Do

Tucked away in the Pacific Northwest lies a haven for nature lovers complete with an undisturbed Northwest forest and sweeping views of Puget Sound. Once a private piece of property, home to the Bloedel Family, the Bloedel Reserve is now open to the public. Situated on Bainbridge Island, Washington, reservations are required to tour the 84 acres of second growth forest and numerous specialty gardens. Today the nearly 150 acres are operated by The Arbor Fund and the reserve is reached by either the Seattle-Winslow Ferry from Seattle or by the Olympic Peninsula via the Agate Pass Bridge. Upon entering the gatehouse of the reserve, you are instantly enamored by the French architecture and formal European stylistic landscaping of this palatial estate. Your own staggered tour runs independent of others, every 10-15 minutes, so as to experience the reserves natural wonders for yourself. Such botanical wonders include, towering English Elms, monstrous specimens of Katsura tree, Persian Parrotia, Empress tree and Copper Beech to name a few. Attractions include a bird refuge, reflection garden, moss garden, waterfall outlook, and natural forest showcasing the timber tree Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas Fir). These Douglas Firs have been left to their own devices, and are maturing to their fullest potential. Trees well over 100 feet have at their feet a meandering foot path with a gorgeous wooden bridge crossing a giant ravine. With all these towering specimens around you, what really stuck me was a diminutive plant welcoming me into the Japanese garden. A monosweep of Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’ (Black Mondo Grass).

Ophiopogon (Mondo or Monkey grass) has a petite stature, but when used in mass plantings or monosweeps can easily enhance gargantuan counterparts. However, the plants people of the Bloedel Reserve used Black Mondo Grass on either side of a walkway welcoming me through an Asian-type bower. Monkey grass is a sod-forming, herbaceous perennial plant. Derived from Greek ophis, “snake”, and pogon, “beard”, there is some conjecture as to whether this refers to the leaves or its flower spike. Mondo’s epithet refers to Japan’s language of ryu-no-hige (dragon’s beard) or ja-no-hige (snake’s beard). Chinese medicine uses mai men dong, Ophiopogon japonicus tuber, as an herb to help yin deficiency. Said to suppress dry coughs and constipation, the Chinese believe in its curative powers.

Often confused with Liriope muscari (Lilyturf), the leaves of mondo grass are narrower with blue fruits as compared to the black fruits of Liriope. Mondo grass is primarily used as a groundcover or border foreground plant, however it looks quite attractive in planters, around ponds or between stone foot paths. Suitable to plant under larger trees, monkey grass is able to survive amongst other plants with more competitive root structures. Once established this small wonder requires little or no attention and is free of most insect and disease problems. Filtered sunlight to full shade help drive the marketability of this plant in our garden center as customers are tired of the pedestrian solutions of ajuga and pachysandra. You can propagate this plant by dividing large clumps and consider shearing back the older spent leaves in early spring before the new growth comes out. Tolerant to medium wet conditions, mondo grass grows to about a foot tall depending on cultivar. Hardy from zones 6-11, monkey grass even flowers in the summer.

There are several cultivars to impress and add variety to your gardens. Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Nanus’, as you might expect, is a lush, dark green variety with half the height of the species only reaching 4-6 inches. Ophiopogon ‘Kyoto Dwarf’ is almost microscopic. Appreciating the diminutive structure of this plant reaching only 1-2 inches tall and understanding the potential of it as a bonsai understory… it’s only hardy to zone 7. So enjoy it South Jersey and further south. Finally, my favorite is Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’. Sometimes referred to as ‘Ebony Knight or ‘Black Dragon’, I love it as Black Mondo Grass. Picture a shady location in your garden and tucked away in the foreground is a flat, black grass backed by a layer of Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, (Variegated Hakone Grass), a yellow foliaged grass with streaks of green lines.

Hopefully you have been inspired to visit the Bloedel Reserve, “a place where one is reminded of the fundamental bond that exists between man and nature” (Prentice Bloedel). A place where I was inspired to plant monkey grass once I had seen it done so well. Lastly, Prentice Bloedel’s truism sums up best man and nature. “Nature can do without man, but man cannot do without nature”.

Faster than Brigadoon

Famed director and Oscar winner, Vincente Minnelli, used the cinema to tell heartfelt, realistic and compelling stories. A filmography that would impress the likes of Steven Spielberg and Martin Scorsese, includes Ziegfeld Follies, Father of the Bride, An American in Paris, Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse and Oscar winner Gigi. However, arguably one of his greatest tales took place in the 18^th century, on the Scottish Highlands, and was brought to life by Gene Kelly, Van Johnson and Cyd Charisse. Brigadoon is a “time warp fantasy that depicts the ethereal village materializing from the mists only one day each hundred years.” So where am I going with such a sub reference? It has been said that patience is a virtue. Fellow gardeners and plants people know this adage all too well. Some annuals take an entire season to come to fruition. Perennials can come into their own after two or three years. Deciduous shrubs and conifers can develop into handsome specimens after several years. But a tree that has been known to take ten to fifteen years to flower, that’s just crazy! Or is it?

Davidia involucrata, Dove-tree or Handkerchief tree, might not take as long to flower as it does for Brigadoon to reappear, but it sure feels like it. Introduced in 1904 and native to China, this tree will always be remembered once you see it flower. The foliage is a bright green with pronounced veins and a silky underside. Zone hardy from 6 to 8, Davidia, will provide the outline of a broad pyramid reaching heights of twenty to forty feet. Davidia’s bark has cinnamon markings and during its adolescent years is very smooth. Many fellow plants people, when asked to identify my specimen in my yard, came up short and identified it as a Tilia (Linden). Another great tree to be discussed at a later date, Tilia does look similar when young. Chunky, swollen, larger buds have formed on my tree and I can hardy wait for them to explode this spring. Golf ball size fruit mature in the fall and dangle on its winter silhouette. The outside of this golf ball is greenish-tan with red speckles and a very hard, single nut sits inside. But let’s face it… it’s the flower, or bracts, you will remember most. Two huge, creamy-white to pure white bracts of unequal size announce themselves in May, providing an indelible introduction. Set between the bracts is a pincushion of white filaments and red anthers. I find it interesting to note that the lower bract is always larger than the upper one. And these aren’t small bracts as they can range in size from four to eight inches each. Few pests, if any, plague the illustrious Handkerchief tree. Full sun to part shade and well-drained soil are conducive to a Dove trees success.

Three cultivars are noteworthy. Davidia involucrata ‘Sonoma’ is in my front yard for no other reason than it can bloom within the first two or three years. Yes, I’m a bit impatient. ‘Columnaris’ is what you might expect… a columnar Dove tree. Finally, Davidia ‘Crimson Spring’ has crimson-red spring foliage. Introduced by Rippingale Nursery, this cultivar is so new it has even escaped my grasp.

While the wait for Davidia flowers can be long, the anticipation for other plants to flower can prove to be somewhat lamentable or even sickening. The Silversword, Argyroxiphium sandwicense ssp. macrocephalum, a rare member of the sunflower family, found on the slopes of Haleakala National park in Maui, can take decades before developing a flowering stalk. And after it flowers…it dies! And what about the recent reintroduction of Amorphophallus titanum, Corpse or Stink plant, that the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens showcased last August. This stinky, botanical wonder, native to Sumatra, can also exceed a decade before flowering. Following which is rank-smelling foliage that entices bugs to lay their eggs which would typically do so in dead animals. So in retrospect, the prospect of having a beautiful tree with an abundant of attributes contributing to year-round interest that can take just a few years to achieve isn’t so bad after all. Hopefully this article will inspire you to run out and get your hands on a Davidia tree. If you are so inspired, perhaps you can pay homage to Brigadoon by mass planting some Erica (Heather) around your Dove tree, referencing “The Heather On the Hill”, a pastoral ballet in the movie. While the Handkerchief tree can take some time to impress, remember another old adage: Good things come to those who wait.

Planting Trees & Shrubs 101

A few months ago there was a great cover story in the Gardener News about “Mulched Volcanoes”. The article depicted one of the many inaccuracies or misconceptions about how people incorrectly install plant material. Far too often plant material is set into the ground either too high or below grade. Various mulches are used as decorative coverings at a depth, in some cases, of 8-10 inches. Now that the weather is breaking, I thought it be helpful to point out some basic mechanics of how to properly install and care for our green friends.

One of the first things any good garden will have is a plan. Don’t be capricious about placing your larger, future plant material. Leave the bright colors of annuals for your more whimsical plantings. Consideration for sunlight and proximity to surroundings should always be at the forefront of your decision making. Take notice of water issues that are either too wet or too dry and always consider Deer! They simply will punish you if you don’t plan for them.

The debate as to which is better to plant, B&B (Balled and Burlapped) materials or containerized plants will always be a hot topic filled with opinions predicated on past experiences. Either way, the mechanics of slipping the root system back into the ground are the same. Today’s popular belief is to dig a hole slightly larger than twice the size of the root ball. Consider amending your native soil with new top soil, humus or well-rotted leaf compost. Large quantities of humus can help cure heavy clay soil and fast draining sand while making your plants feel as though they are having a spa day. The depth of the hole should not be any deeper than the root ball itself. “It is better to plant slightly higher rather than lower than the tree was growing prior to the move” (Rutgers Cooperative Extension). B&B trees should have the top of the burlap either folded back or I like to cut the top half off all together. Burlap that is not folded or cut off can wick moisture away from the plant. Larger B&B trees will have a wire basket around the root ball. If possible, cut the top half of the cage off. DO NOT TRY TO WRESTLE THE CAGE OFF FROM THE ROOT BALL! This will only create a sloppy root mass and potentially harm the tree, diminishing the success of the tree. The mechanics above should only be done after you have decided that the tree will no longer be moved around. This includes finding the best side of the tree and rotating the ball to that position. After all is said and done, remember to mulch around your plant material at a depth of 2 to 3 inches keeping the mulch away from the bark of the plant. Stake larger plant material and avoid getting too close with the lawn mower or treading to heavily over the root systems.

Deep watering is also important. Sprinkler systems only target the top few inches of soil line. Don’t rely too heavily on them unless you have specific zones for landscape beds and zones for turf. The best way to water plants is to apply it at a rate that the soil will absorb without runoff.

When you select plants this spring remember to select well proportioned plants. Avoid root balls that are abnormally small, dented or loose from the plant. By the same token, containerized material should not have roots spiraling around the top of the pot or have roots growing out the drainage holes on the bottom of the pot. Inspect the foliage and limbs of plant material. Bright, healthy looking foliage is what you’re after. Plants that are losing leaves, turning yellow or brown or look fatigued or stressed should be avoided. You spend the time weekly to inspect produce at a supermarket so be discriminating on your plant purchases as well. After all your plant purchase will last far longer than a meal will.

Finally, remember that April 27, the last Friday in April, is Arbor Day. Hopefully this article will inspire you to become a “Tree Hugger.” Take the time to further your education and visit Arborday.org. The website provides great tips, including tree care and planting as well as a terrific identification guide. The National Arbor Day Foundation currently has on their site 10 free trees when you become a member. An incentive to help contribute to the 8.5 million trees members planted last year.