Sugi: A Revered Conifer in Japan

With the holidays quickly approaching, there is a sense of urgency to decorate and adorn our homes. While Christmas trees are a small part of the holiday season, the selection of tree types is enormous. The popular candidates are Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii), Fraser Fir (Abies fraseri), Balsam Fir (Abies balsamea), Grand Fir (Abies grandis), Noble Fir (Abies procera), White Fir (Abies concolor), Nordmann Fir (Abies nordmanniana), Colorado Spruce (Picea pungens) and Norway spruce (Picea abies). While these are all attractive Christmas trees most are also used for privacy screens and shade trees in our landscapes. Another Mega Conifer to consider for our landscapes is the very versatile Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese Cedar).

Today’s academics still list Cryptomeria as part of the Taxodiaceae family. Grouped with the likes of Metasequoia (Dawn Redwood), Sequoia and Sequoiadendron (Coast Redwoods and Giant Redwoods) as well as Sciadopitys (Umbrella Pine) to name a few. However, just as Sciadopitys is listed a few ways, also in the Pinaceae family, so to is Cryptomeria being pushed towards the Cupressaceae family (Cypress family). A discussion for the academics, there is no denying the vast potential of this conifer. Those who are introduced to Cryptomeria for the first time are usually enamored with its rope-like foliage, which is blue-green and rubbery to the touch. A broad pyramidal tree as an older specimen, Cryptomeria japonica can reach heights of 50-70 feet high by 20-30 feet wide. However, “Jomon Sugi” one of the largest specimens of Cryptomeria or Sugi known, found on the island of Yakushima, Japan, stands a mere 26.1 meters tall and is said to date back almost 3000 years. Sugi incidentally is the vernacular name for Cryptomeria in Japan and is quickly becoming adapted elsewhere. Other distinguishing attributes of this majestic conifer include bark which is reddish-brown, peeling in long strips, cones which are terminal and somewhat round and an ability to grow in a range of soil types. Sugi prefers sun to part shade and appreciates shelter from high winds. This easy to grow superstar fills out quickly and can be useful as a hedge/screen or specimen. One of the few conifers that will coppice (sprout back from cut stumps) you can cut back aggressively and rejuvenate older, overlooked trees. Look for purple-bronze overtones in the winter as well.

Native to Japan and arguably southern China, Cryptomeria has a plethora of cultivars to choose from. Cryptomeria j. ‘Black Dragon’ has a vigorous growth spurt early on and then slowly fills out to an appreciable 10-15 feet in as many years. Light green new growth ages to one of the darkest greens for all Sugi’s and is maintained in the winter. ‘Mignone’ has caught the attention of many people including my dear friends Mitch Krause and Jessica Cordts who recently bought out a collection and mass planted them around a Trochodendron tree. Monochromatic gardening at its best! ‘Mignone’ sports rope-like branchlets and has an overall dense appearance. This suitable dwarf cultivar eventually matures to an upright broad conifer. ‘Sekkan’ is an upright conifer with sulfur yellow markings. A quick growing cultivar adds a punctuation of color to any garden. A personal favorite is ‘Rein’s Dense Jade’. Unusual texture and jade green markings, this cultivar in more fastigiate than it is pyramidal. The needles are held tightly to the stem and the winter helps offer purple-bronze markings. There are 54 planted at our house in a hedge form creating a skeletal backdrop for a large garden room. Unprotected from the winter, they stand on the north, south, east and west ends and are glorious. Finally, ‘Vilmoriniana’ can fit into anyone’s garden. Pointed short needles lead you from green to a purple-bronze in the winter. A dwarf form that is dense and globose at maturity.

Sugi (Cryptomeria) the national tree of Japan is so revered in its native land that not only does it have its own stamp but it is often planted around temples and is part of sacred grounds. One notable house of worship is the Shrine at Ise, Japan. A Shinto shrine to the goddess Amaterasu omikami it is set within ancient forests of giant Cryptomeria. A name derived from the Greek kryptos (hidden) and meros (part) certainly contradicts and reveals much of itself. A conifer with bright green new growth, purple-bronze markings in the winter and bark that is reddish-pink in color and slightly scented, truly is a conifer for all seasons. Now, if we could only get them as a cut Christmas tree…that would be something.

Winter Protection for Our Green Friends

According to Consumer Reports, the average depreciation value for all models of automobiles is 45 percent over the first three years. Having said this, most go to great lengths to protect an investment that’s depreciating. Checking fluids; changing the oil every three thousand miles, being mindful of the engine coolant, watching the power steering levels, radiator and battery fluids are all basic maintenance we pay particular attention to as we approach winter. Furthermore, spark plugs, brakes and lights are all on schedule to be checked, repaired or simply maintained throughout the year. We put snow tires on cars, sometimes chains and add water to engine coolants so they do not freeze when the bitter cold hits zero degrees. Shouldn’t the same attentions and commitments be implemented to protect our landscapes? After all, landscapes that are well maintained appreciate adding to the resale of your home.

FIRST AND FOREMOST, FALL IS AN EXCELLENT TIME TO PLANT TREES AND SHRUBS!! Plant material is going dormant and thus there is virtually no transplant shock. So feel free to move plants about your property, assiduously checking for the occasional fall dig hazard plants. Conversely, planting trees and shrubs simply means slipping the plant material into the ground which you have just purchased. Water requirements are far less as temperatures are plunging and you may even come across an occasional deal as plant purveyors are committed to depleting inventory this time of year.

Hopefully by now you have been diligently watering and fertilizing your plant material through summer and early fall. Watering can be decreased in early fall and should be increased towards the end of late fall to help protect trees and shrubs. Just before you turn your outdoor water off for the winter, give your trees and shrubs one last long, slow drink as this will help protect them from the drying winds of winter. Allow plants to go dormant. Don’t encourage growth by adding nitrogen fertilizers in the fall. This will stimulate top growth and force plants to reach and stretch at a time when they should be relaxing and ready to sleep. Phosphorous and potassium fertilizers will be better suited to help with winter acclimation. Consider wrapping younger trees with a commercial tree wrap, vinyl or paper, as you will protect them from desiccating winds as well as from “buck rub” (deer damage). Protecting evergreens from drying winds has always been a topic of debate. Antidesiccants (Anti-Transpirants) help protect broadleaf evergreens like hollies, rhododendron, azaleas and laurels, but should not be used to protect our needled friends. Spruce, hemlock, arborvitae, pines etc. should not be sprayed but rather have a burlap wall around them. Winter browning of evergreens is caused by a combined effect of wind and sun. Thus, these coniferous evergreens will benefit immensely by simply providing them with a line of defense. In this case a burlap wall. Thoughtfully select species and cultivars that will tolerate the given surroundings. Plant species that are susceptible to winter injury should be thoughtfully placed in areas of minimal exposure to winter wind and sun. In other words, don’t plant Prunus laurocerasus ‘Schipkaensis’ (Shipka or Skip Laurel) on the west side of your property, without protection, and expect great results. While one of the hardiest of the cherry laurels, this broadleaf evergreen found near the Shipka Pass in Bulgaria, is often placed in wind tunnels only to succumb a most certain death.

Mulching your trees, shrubs and perennials for the winter is very important. However, doing it properly is even more important. Two to four inches of mulch around your plants is plenty. Too much mulch is just as bad as too little mulch. Aside from aesthetics, the purpose of mulch is to regulate and control temperature and hold moisture. Too little and plants can dry out. Too much and plants can rot. Always be mindful to keep the mulch material away from direct contact with the bark of trees.

Finally, there is still enough time to plant bulbs for next year. The ground should still be “workable” and thus you can add tremendous excitement to your garden by having bulbs peek out early next spring. The pedestrian types such as Tulips, Hyacinths and Crocus are always welcome; however consider Scilla, Chionodoxa, Allium and Fritillaria to spice things up a bit. Remember, Narcissus (Daffodil) is always a good staple bulb that not only naturalizes but is “Deer Proof”. All will look great emerging somewhere between the flowering of Hamamelis (Witchhazel) and the Mahonia (Oregon Grapeholly).

Cathaya argyrophylla: An Endangered, Uncommon Conifer

John Stella (John Stella Horticultural Sales) is a friend, colleague and plant enthusiast whose vast botanical knowledge is not only encyclopedic, but seldom rivaled. John often refers to certain plants as “BIO Plants”, an acronym for Botanical Interest Only. His usage as an adjective is often out of fascination, admiration or trivial interest for plants. Hidden from the world until 1955, the genus Cathaya was virtually unknown and today still stumps the most inquisitive horticultural minds.

Imagine a trek, totaling several days, climbing mountainous terrain, in search of a rare conifer only to be met by bureaucratic resistance. Resistance layered with local police, the local tourist bureau, the forestry department, the public secretary bureau, the Mayor’s office, and the Chinese army. Known only as a fossil record from tertiary sediments in Eurasia, Cathaya was rediscovered in 1955 by Chinese scientists in southeastern Szechwan and has been found growing in parts of Hunan, Guangxi, and Guizhou. Jinfu Shan, the destination for our early explorers, was home for this extraordinary conifer. A member of the pine family (Pinaceae) this monotypic conifer (a sole member of its group or single species) seems to favor limestone outcrops and areas of heavy summer rain. Extremely rare in cultivation, this curious conifer has similarities to the following genus groups: Abies (fir), Picea (spruce), Tsuga (hemlock), Pseudotsuga (Douglas fir), Larix (larch), Cedrus (cedar) and Pinus (pines). An evolutionary marvel, Cathaya has its embryo and pollen resembling that of true pines (Pinus), its wood similar to Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga), and its overall habit and seed producing cones reciprocal to spruce (Picea).

After an arduous journey to the United States from the People’s Republic of China, we have Dr. James Waddick of Kansas City, Missouri to credit Cathaya’s arrival. Dr Waddick has been “Championed” for distributing Cathaya argyrophylla to the Western World. Forwarded from the offices of the Conifer Conservation Programme at the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh, the Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University and Iseli Nursery in Oregon were among the first to be bestowed with the treasures of Cathaya. Andre Iseli, former owner of Iseli Nursery, the conifer capital of the world, was determined to be the first person to acquire the seed of Cathaya. Since 1991, Iseli has received six different seed crops from various sources and in 1995 successfully germinated four seeds. From these four seeds, two remain at Iseli Nursery, one standing over six feet tall now. One continues to grow at Andre Iseli’s garden and the forth was auctioned at the Conifer Society in 2000 after being donated by Iseli Nursery.

The cold hardiness of the plant is still under review. Iseli Nursery, after successfully germinating several seeds from a 1998 crop, selflessly gifted twenty specimens to friends throughout the country. In an effort to determine the plants hardiness, Iseli only asked for feedback as to how the plant performs from region to region. Among the few to receive such a gift, I can say that the plant performs admirably in central New Jersey and has not been browsed by deer. Time will Tell! Aesthetic similarities include that of Sciadopitys (Umbrella Pine) and Cunninghamia (China fir) as its needles are long and wide.

The word argyrophylla literally means “silvery leaves”. The lush green leaves, in fact have a silver underbelly. Growing amongst such familiar plants as rhododendrons, cotoneaster and enkianthus the initial grove of Cathaya, standing some ten meters (thirty-three feet) must have had an indelible impression for the chosen few who first meet them. Despite the initial bureaucratic red tape those early plant hunters encountered, a call to the governor and some political pull not only allowed trespassing, but permitted the touch and photography of these historical creatures. “They have hid from the modern world until only recently. Pondering the pressure of more than six billion people and the pollution from our industrialized world, I wondered whether the trees would have been better off remaining hidden” (Pacific Horticulture 2001). Despite the efforts of footholds filled with concrete, rough areas that were smoothed over that would have served as grips and installing barriers of rock and concrete, the elevation of 5600 feet was reached. Through the mist and beyond the dense thicket of bamboo stood the grove of Yinshan (the Chinese name for Cathaya argyrophylla). Thankfully there are those among us who have the forward thinking to honor the past by protecting it and ensuring its survival by careful and thoughtful toils. Thank you to the People’s Republic for understanding that preservation can endure without simply hiding the truth and to Iseli Nursery for their cutting edge science and remarkable generosity to pay it forward.

Funky Genus

Edson Arantes do Nascimento, Reginald Dwight, Gordon Sumner, Agnes Gonxha Bojaxhiu and Norma Jeane Mortenson (Baker) all have achieved worldwide recognition. However, these five people are all better known by such names as Pele, Sir Elton John, Sting, Mother Teresa and Marilyn Monroe. It seems that their born names were not as catchy, desirable or fitting. The same can be said for the genus Funkia. A genus pressing more than 70 species of lily-like plants and native to northeast Asia, Funkia seems to have been replaced by the more popular name Hosta. And while the rejected generic name is still found in some older literature and the occasional trade publication of perennials, Hosta has for the last quarter century been more popular.

Those of you who grew up in Union County in the early 1970’s, particularly those involved with the garden center industry, no doubt remember two sisters in Scotch Plains who supplied perennials to a large number of nurseries. The “Ditzel Sisters” are remembered today as two women who would greet you in the morning with pancake batter on their sleeves and sell “Jersey Grown” perennials later in the day. With a cleverly conceived, segmented, garden spade that was quartered, they could outwork nearly anyone as they would dig and market their plants. Ditzel Farm was across from today’s Union County Votech and is sited here because they marketed and sold hosta, only they called it Funkia.

The etymology of Funkia comes from the work of Heinrich Christian Funck, a German botanist and pharmacist (1771-1839). Displaced later by Austrian physician and botanist Nicolaus Host (1761-1834) the genus name, first and last, has honored the works of both men. The word “Funky” has had its share of negative connotations, thus its Hosta’s turn in the sunlight. Or is it?

While the name is basking in the limelight, Hosta much prefers the canopy cover of deciduous counterparts and coniferous friends. Protected from hot afternoon sun, Hosta is happiest in filtered light and survives admirably in shade. Herbaceous perennial plants, hosta grow from corms or rhizomes and have broad lanceolate or ovate leaves. Leaves that range in size from one inch to over a foot and equal in width. Though typically thought of as a green plant, hosta can surprise with some tantalizing variegated forms and glaucous waxy leaf textures. Generally an easy, long lived plant, relatively free of disease and requiring little maintenance, just water and the occasional plant food, hosta does have a few enemies. Deer, slugs and snails seem to enjoy these broad-leaved friends of ours almost as much as we do. However, as we are enticed visually by the kaleidoscope of colors they have to offer, these predators are bellying up for a culinary feast.

With some three thousand + named and registered varieties already and an almost equal number hoping to become registered, the possibilities are staggering for this herbaceous perennial group. ‘Guacamole’ is a newer, fragrant cultivar offering huge, shiny, chartreuse green leaves with a pronounced blue edge. ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ has small gray-green leaves and a texture so thick you have to touch it to believe it’s not artificial. ‘Patriot’, a sport of ‘Francee’ has a dark green center with pronounced white outer markings which are sizably wider (1997 American Hosta Growers Hosta of the Year). ‘Frances Williams’ needs no introduction as it seems to be the most popular of the lot. Heavily corrugated foliage with blue-green and yellow margins keeps this at the top of my list. Finally, rounding out my short list of favorites is ‘Tattoo’. Introduced at the 1994 Atlanta Hosta Convention, this beauty has bright gold leaves, each tattooed with a green outline of a maple leaf in the center, topped off literally with lavender flowers in early summer.

As a proud, upstanding member of the Conifer Society it almost seems sacrilege to talk so prominently of the perennial kingdom. However, realizing that conifers can only be enhanced by the bold textures of deciduous ornamentals, annuals and perennials, I digress in the enjoyment that this genus is there to be enjoyed and showcase the kings of the plant world…Conifers. And I suppose visa versa. Webster’s Dictionary defines “funky” as having an earthy style and feeling. Apropos for the once named Funkia. Finally, there are a number of web sites supporting the genus. Those in particular are www.hosta.org (The American Hosta Society), www.hostalibrary.org (for great Hosta pictures) and www.hostahem.org.uk/ (British Hosta and Hemerocallis Society). Whether you call it Funkia, Hosta, Corfu Lily, Day Lily, Plantain Lily or the Japanese name Giboshi this genus offers enough variety to enhance any garden.

Monkey Puzzle?

In 1947 director Joseph L. Mankiewicz coupled Rex Harrison and Gene Tierney in a romantic-comedy The Ghost and Mrs. Muir. Previously a novel written by Josephine Leslie penned under the pseudonym R. A. Dick and later a television series from 1968 to 1970, this romantic story has captivated audiences for nearly sixty years. Gardeners have referenced the movie to me on numerous occasions citing the rhetoric between Mrs. Muir (Gene Tierney) and Mr. Coombs (Robert Coote). “What a hideous tree. Quite! What kind of tree is it? I believe it’s called a Monkey Puzzle tree. Why? Because it defies the efforts of monkeys to climb it I presume. Ruins the view! I’ll have it chopped down.” Referenced by adults to me as unusual, spiny, odd, and exotic and by kids as simply “Cool”, this tree has sparked interest and attempts to plant it rival the efforts of those who go to great lengths to protect their precious fig trees in the winter.
Academically hardy to zone 7, there are specimens found in central and north Jersey where we are clearly a zone 6. Sited properly in alcoves or away from wind tunnels, I have seen this coniferous evergreen, related to the indoor houseplant Norfolk Island Pine; do well even without the help of a burlap wall for winter protection. Specifically, our garden center in Berkeley Heights, New Jersey had a single specimen for over 10 years. Situated within a northwest corner alcove of our building, it simply outgrew its surroundings and sadly was taken down. However, as a good friend and mentor of mine, Jock Demme of Iseli Nursery, often says, “Like it for as long as you can.” We did!!
My introduction to this tree was some 15 years ago on a buying trip in the Pacific Northwest. Bouncing from nursery to nursery, hand picking our nursery stock for the following year, I drove past an enormous specimen, some 70 feet tall, with rope-like arms covered with spiny, leathery, razor sharp, triangular, green leaves. The leaves are affixed for some 10-15 years before being replaced. These horizontal, spreading branches grow in whorls and are evenly spaced in tiers. Branching some 30 feet across, this imposing tree was a handsome lawn specimen with a trunk that looked like the foot of an elephant, complete with dark gray-brown, wrinkled bark. Majestic in its stature this Monkey Puzzle tree is visited every year I return.
Araucaria araucana (Monkey Puzzle) was introduced during the late 1700’s. Native to the volcanic slopes in the Andes Mountains of Chile and Argentina, it is often referred to as a Chilean Pine. Broadly pyramidal and sometimes oval are mature outlines to look forward to. The most cold hardy of some 18 species, Monkey Puzzle enjoys full sun to part shade and well drained soil. Tolerant of winds and salt spray I have seen a hedge of these towards the Oregon coast. Monkey puzzle is dioecious (has separate male and female trees). Female trees produce a 6” egg-shaped cone that takes 2-3 years to mature. Notable to mention, female trees have been measured consistently larger than their male counterparts. The cones can contain 80-200 large, edible seeds and are used for medicinal purposes a well as a food source for people. Likened to the taste of pine nuts, these edible seeds can be eaten raw or cooked and are high in starch. The resin, incidentally, has been used in the treatment for ulcers and open wounds. Finally, the genus is said to be named after the Arauco Indians whose territory was amongst the natural stands of the species.

A Popular Misconception

One of the most popular questions I field during the spring is, “when is a good time to plant?” My answer… you can plant anytime, as long as you can break ground. Homeowners become weary and skeptical around this time every year. When our heat index rises and it becomes uncomfortable for more rigorous, outdoor yard work, it seems that zinnias, red fountain grass, other tropicals and larger pots of annual color dominate the public’s eye and fill temporary landscapes. The truth is there is a huge misconception between transplanting and planting new plant materials during the hot summer months.

Transplanting existing plant material and planting new plant material is entirely different. When you transplant, “take up an existing shrub and set again in another soil or location,” you must be very particular as to when you dig it out of the ground. There is an old adage that says you should never dig something out of the ground, that is established, in any month that does not have an “R” in the word. That leaves out May, June, July and August. The point being that it is easier and less stressful for plants to reestablish themselves during the cooler months of January, February, March, April, September, October, November and December. Yes, it is possible to transplant something in the dead of winter assuming that the ground is not entirely frozen. After all the plant is dormant.

Planting new trees and shrubs, setting our green friends in the ground to grow, seems to be most popular, in the northeast, during the months of April, May and June. Almost any garden center looks at Mothers Day weekend as their Superbowl or World Series of events. Garden centers will have as much product packed into their real estate as possible for the big event. The last frost date for most of New Jersey is around May 15^th. If you follow the lunar calendar, it’s the first full moon in May. This year that was May 16^th. Either way, if you benchmark Mother’s Day, as most do, you can plant tomatoes, basil, figs, azaleas or whatever safely. This year, Mother’s Day was May13th.

Spring plantings dominate the northeast, with our inclusion of annuals, perennials, vegetables, trees, shrubs and tropicals. Autumn seems to be a distant second, an after thought, only for the basics, i.e. azaleas, rhododendron, juniper and laurels as well as the more majestic conifers like spruce, hemlock and pine. That leaves roughly 90 days of good planting weather for you to develop your gardens. Availability seems to be the hardest obstacle to overcome in the warmer summer months. B&B (balled and burlap plant material) is case sensitive and is dug in cooler months. Once a garden center has gone through its allotment or inventory for the spring, it is hard to restock larger specimen plants. However, containerized plants are abundant during the warmer summer months and are at absolutely no risk of being installed during this time of year. Moreover, larger plants that were dug out of the ground at the right time of year also have no risk of being reinstalled or planted during warmer summer months as they were dug while they were dormant. The same logic still applies when planting in the spring, summer or fall. Sight your plants properly being cognizant of lighting conditions, deer issues and proximity to their surroundings. Just because it’s summer don’t water a plant everyday! Monitor the plant and check it two to three times a week for water. Over watering can be just as fatal as under watering.

There are exceptions to the rule, however, about transplanting trees within the months that have an “R”. There are fall digging hazards for a number of trees and thus it is suggested that the following types of trees be thoughtfully transplanted during February and March. Trident Maples, Birch, Hornbeams, Katsura’s, Redbuds, Hawthorns, Beech, Carolina Silverbells, Goldenraintrees, Sweetgums, Tuliptrees, Crabapples, Black Gums, Hophornbeams, Cherries, Pears, Oaks, Willows, Mountainash, Lindens, Chinese Elms and Zelkova’s have all been deemed dangerous for fall transplanting.

Planting trees and shrubs in the summer gives our green friends roughly four to six months to set their feet (roots) into the ground and become comfortable for our infamous Jersey winters. As you peruse nursery stock this summer be mindful that a standard 2-2.5” caliper tree that is balled and burlapped should have a 24” size root ball and weighs approximately 300 pounds. Container trees that are similar in size may be manageable enough for you to load into your SUV and be the weekend warrior you know you are.

Monkey See, Monkey Do

Tucked away in the Pacific Northwest lies a haven for nature lovers complete with an undisturbed Northwest forest and sweeping views of Puget Sound. Once a private piece of property, home to the Bloedel Family, the Bloedel Reserve is now open to the public. Situated on Bainbridge Island, Washington, reservations are required to tour the 84 acres of second growth forest and numerous specialty gardens. Today the nearly 150 acres are operated by The Arbor Fund and the reserve is reached by either the Seattle-Winslow Ferry from Seattle or by the Olympic Peninsula via the Agate Pass Bridge. Upon entering the gatehouse of the reserve, you are instantly enamored by the French architecture and formal European stylistic landscaping of this palatial estate. Your own staggered tour runs independent of others, every 10-15 minutes, so as to experience the reserves natural wonders for yourself. Such botanical wonders include, towering English Elms, monstrous specimens of Katsura tree, Persian Parrotia, Empress tree and Copper Beech to name a few. Attractions include a bird refuge, reflection garden, moss garden, waterfall outlook, and natural forest showcasing the timber tree Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas Fir). These Douglas Firs have been left to their own devices, and are maturing to their fullest potential. Trees well over 100 feet have at their feet a meandering foot path with a gorgeous wooden bridge crossing a giant ravine. With all these towering specimens around you, what really stuck me was a diminutive plant welcoming me into the Japanese garden. A monosweep of Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’ (Black Mondo Grass).

Ophiopogon (Mondo or Monkey grass) has a petite stature, but when used in mass plantings or monosweeps can easily enhance gargantuan counterparts. However, the plants people of the Bloedel Reserve used Black Mondo Grass on either side of a walkway welcoming me through an Asian-type bower. Monkey grass is a sod-forming, herbaceous perennial plant. Derived from Greek ophis, “snake”, and pogon, “beard”, there is some conjecture as to whether this refers to the leaves or its flower spike. Mondo’s epithet refers to Japan’s language of ryu-no-hige (dragon’s beard) or ja-no-hige (snake’s beard). Chinese medicine uses mai men dong, Ophiopogon japonicus tuber, as an herb to help yin deficiency. Said to suppress dry coughs and constipation, the Chinese believe in its curative powers.

Often confused with Liriope muscari (Lilyturf), the leaves of mondo grass are narrower with blue fruits as compared to the black fruits of Liriope. Mondo grass is primarily used as a groundcover or border foreground plant, however it looks quite attractive in planters, around ponds or between stone foot paths. Suitable to plant under larger trees, monkey grass is able to survive amongst other plants with more competitive root structures. Once established this small wonder requires little or no attention and is free of most insect and disease problems. Filtered sunlight to full shade help drive the marketability of this plant in our garden center as customers are tired of the pedestrian solutions of ajuga and pachysandra. You can propagate this plant by dividing large clumps and consider shearing back the older spent leaves in early spring before the new growth comes out. Tolerant to medium wet conditions, mondo grass grows to about a foot tall depending on cultivar. Hardy from zones 6-11, monkey grass even flowers in the summer.

There are several cultivars to impress and add variety to your gardens. Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Nanus’, as you might expect, is a lush, dark green variety with half the height of the species only reaching 4-6 inches. Ophiopogon ‘Kyoto Dwarf’ is almost microscopic. Appreciating the diminutive structure of this plant reaching only 1-2 inches tall and understanding the potential of it as a bonsai understory… it’s only hardy to zone 7. So enjoy it South Jersey and further south. Finally, my favorite is Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’. Sometimes referred to as ‘Ebony Knight or ‘Black Dragon’, I love it as Black Mondo Grass. Picture a shady location in your garden and tucked away in the foreground is a flat, black grass backed by a layer of Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, (Variegated Hakone Grass), a yellow foliaged grass with streaks of green lines.

Hopefully you have been inspired to visit the Bloedel Reserve, “a place where one is reminded of the fundamental bond that exists between man and nature” (Prentice Bloedel). A place where I was inspired to plant monkey grass once I had seen it done so well. Lastly, Prentice Bloedel’s truism sums up best man and nature. “Nature can do without man, but man cannot do without nature”.

Faster than Brigadoon

Famed director and Oscar winner, Vincente Minnelli, used the cinema to tell heartfelt, realistic and compelling stories. A filmography that would impress the likes of Steven Spielberg and Martin Scorsese, includes Ziegfeld Follies, Father of the Bride, An American in Paris, Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse and Oscar winner Gigi. However, arguably one of his greatest tales took place in the 18^th century, on the Scottish Highlands, and was brought to life by Gene Kelly, Van Johnson and Cyd Charisse. Brigadoon is a “time warp fantasy that depicts the ethereal village materializing from the mists only one day each hundred years.” So where am I going with such a sub reference? It has been said that patience is a virtue. Fellow gardeners and plants people know this adage all too well. Some annuals take an entire season to come to fruition. Perennials can come into their own after two or three years. Deciduous shrubs and conifers can develop into handsome specimens after several years. But a tree that has been known to take ten to fifteen years to flower, that’s just crazy! Or is it?

Davidia involucrata, Dove-tree or Handkerchief tree, might not take as long to flower as it does for Brigadoon to reappear, but it sure feels like it. Introduced in 1904 and native to China, this tree will always be remembered once you see it flower. The foliage is a bright green with pronounced veins and a silky underside. Zone hardy from 6 to 8, Davidia, will provide the outline of a broad pyramid reaching heights of twenty to forty feet. Davidia’s bark has cinnamon markings and during its adolescent years is very smooth. Many fellow plants people, when asked to identify my specimen in my yard, came up short and identified it as a Tilia (Linden). Another great tree to be discussed at a later date, Tilia does look similar when young. Chunky, swollen, larger buds have formed on my tree and I can hardy wait for them to explode this spring. Golf ball size fruit mature in the fall and dangle on its winter silhouette. The outside of this golf ball is greenish-tan with red speckles and a very hard, single nut sits inside. But let’s face it… it’s the flower, or bracts, you will remember most. Two huge, creamy-white to pure white bracts of unequal size announce themselves in May, providing an indelible introduction. Set between the bracts is a pincushion of white filaments and red anthers. I find it interesting to note that the lower bract is always larger than the upper one. And these aren’t small bracts as they can range in size from four to eight inches each. Few pests, if any, plague the illustrious Handkerchief tree. Full sun to part shade and well-drained soil are conducive to a Dove trees success.

Three cultivars are noteworthy. Davidia involucrata ‘Sonoma’ is in my front yard for no other reason than it can bloom within the first two or three years. Yes, I’m a bit impatient. ‘Columnaris’ is what you might expect… a columnar Dove tree. Finally, Davidia ‘Crimson Spring’ has crimson-red spring foliage. Introduced by Rippingale Nursery, this cultivar is so new it has even escaped my grasp.

While the wait for Davidia flowers can be long, the anticipation for other plants to flower can prove to be somewhat lamentable or even sickening. The Silversword, Argyroxiphium sandwicense ssp. macrocephalum, a rare member of the sunflower family, found on the slopes of Haleakala National park in Maui, can take decades before developing a flowering stalk. And after it flowers…it dies! And what about the recent reintroduction of Amorphophallus titanum, Corpse or Stink plant, that the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens showcased last August. This stinky, botanical wonder, native to Sumatra, can also exceed a decade before flowering. Following which is rank-smelling foliage that entices bugs to lay their eggs which would typically do so in dead animals. So in retrospect, the prospect of having a beautiful tree with an abundant of attributes contributing to year-round interest that can take just a few years to achieve isn’t so bad after all. Hopefully this article will inspire you to run out and get your hands on a Davidia tree. If you are so inspired, perhaps you can pay homage to Brigadoon by mass planting some Erica (Heather) around your Dove tree, referencing “The Heather On the Hill”, a pastoral ballet in the movie. While the Handkerchief tree can take some time to impress, remember another old adage: Good things come to those who wait.

Planting Trees & Shrubs 101

A few months ago there was a great cover story in the Gardener News about “Mulched Volcanoes”. The article depicted one of the many inaccuracies or misconceptions about how people incorrectly install plant material. Far too often plant material is set into the ground either too high or below grade. Various mulches are used as decorative coverings at a depth, in some cases, of 8-10 inches. Now that the weather is breaking, I thought it be helpful to point out some basic mechanics of how to properly install and care for our green friends.

One of the first things any good garden will have is a plan. Don’t be capricious about placing your larger, future plant material. Leave the bright colors of annuals for your more whimsical plantings. Consideration for sunlight and proximity to surroundings should always be at the forefront of your decision making. Take notice of water issues that are either too wet or too dry and always consider Deer! They simply will punish you if you don’t plan for them.

The debate as to which is better to plant, B&B (Balled and Burlapped) materials or containerized plants will always be a hot topic filled with opinions predicated on past experiences. Either way, the mechanics of slipping the root system back into the ground are the same. Today’s popular belief is to dig a hole slightly larger than twice the size of the root ball. Consider amending your native soil with new top soil, humus or well-rotted leaf compost. Large quantities of humus can help cure heavy clay soil and fast draining sand while making your plants feel as though they are having a spa day. The depth of the hole should not be any deeper than the root ball itself. “It is better to plant slightly higher rather than lower than the tree was growing prior to the move” (Rutgers Cooperative Extension). B&B trees should have the top of the burlap either folded back or I like to cut the top half off all together. Burlap that is not folded or cut off can wick moisture away from the plant. Larger B&B trees will have a wire basket around the root ball. If possible, cut the top half of the cage off. DO NOT TRY TO WRESTLE THE CAGE OFF FROM THE ROOT BALL! This will only create a sloppy root mass and potentially harm the tree, diminishing the success of the tree. The mechanics above should only be done after you have decided that the tree will no longer be moved around. This includes finding the best side of the tree and rotating the ball to that position. After all is said and done, remember to mulch around your plant material at a depth of 2 to 3 inches keeping the mulch away from the bark of the plant. Stake larger plant material and avoid getting too close with the lawn mower or treading to heavily over the root systems.

Deep watering is also important. Sprinkler systems only target the top few inches of soil line. Don’t rely too heavily on them unless you have specific zones for landscape beds and zones for turf. The best way to water plants is to apply it at a rate that the soil will absorb without runoff.

When you select plants this spring remember to select well proportioned plants. Avoid root balls that are abnormally small, dented or loose from the plant. By the same token, containerized material should not have roots spiraling around the top of the pot or have roots growing out the drainage holes on the bottom of the pot. Inspect the foliage and limbs of plant material. Bright, healthy looking foliage is what you’re after. Plants that are losing leaves, turning yellow or brown or look fatigued or stressed should be avoided. You spend the time weekly to inspect produce at a supermarket so be discriminating on your plant purchases as well. After all your plant purchase will last far longer than a meal will.

Finally, remember that April 27, the last Friday in April, is Arbor Day. Hopefully this article will inspire you to become a “Tree Hugger.” Take the time to further your education and visit Arborday.org. The website provides great tips, including tree care and planting as well as a terrific identification guide. The National Arbor Day Foundation currently has on their site 10 free trees when you become a member. An incentive to help contribute to the 8.5 million trees members planted last year.

Socrates May Have Liked These Hemlocks

Most of us have heard the story of Socrates and his untimely death, at age 70. Standing before a jury and fellow Athenians, Socrates was sentenced to death in 339 BC. His anti-democratic views and impious acts lead to a guilty decision, a vote of 280 to 220, thus providing a suicide story for the ages. What most people don’t realize however is that the poison hemlock consumed was not the evergreen type, Tsuga, but rather a deadly, poisonous herb of the Apiaceae family, Conium maculatum. Mistaken for fennel, parsley or wild carrot, poison hemlock has tiny white flowers clustered in umbels. Native to Europe and the Mediterranean poison hemlock, when crushed, emits a rank, unpleasant odor not the anise or liquorice smells associated with the likes of fennel. Evergreen types of Hemlock look nothing like the herbaceous types.

Tsuga Canadensis, Canadian (Eastern) Hemlock, has long been a staple for the industry because of their tolerance to shady locations. Eastern Hemlocks, left to their own devices, can achieve heights of 50+ feet and 25+ in width. An exception to the rule, this conifer can be planted close to one another with hopes of creating a dense hedge line. However, spruce varieties can not achieve the same results. A candidate for moist, not saturated, areas Hemlocks have gorgeous leaf color complete with dark greens and two glaucous bands underneath. Suitable wherever drainage is good, keep the parent plant and its offspring away from windy areas and be considerate during times of drought.

Cultivars available to gardeners today are plentiful, exciting and diverse. Options include mounding, columnar, variegated, prostrate and globose types. One cultivar that I am asked about time and again, especially by those who visit our home, is Tsuga canadensis ‘Albospica’. A treemendous open growing hemlock which has snowy, white- tipped leaves almost the entire year. This unique attribute stands out against its darker, more mature, foliage. Planted on the north side of our home is a grove of them defining a corner and embedding the glorious earth tones and exfoliating, puzzle-like bark of a Stewartia pseudocamellia (Japanese Stewartia). The texture and colors that the two offer are only heightened with an occasional snowfall. Cultivated since 1866 and still going strong. Another one of the variegated types and often confused with ‘Albospica’ is Tsuga c. ‘Gentsch White’. A variegated globe which also offers white branch tips. Suitable for container gardening or as a small punctuation amongst your foundation plantings, this one benefits from routine pruning. We have Otto Gentsch in Long Island, New York to thank for this one. To round out the white-tipped cultivars that I am in favor of is Tsuga c. ‘Frostie’. Phenomenal white foliage with thin branches enhances its delicate texture, lending itself again to shade gardening. Look for slight pink winter markings as an added bonus. For those of you looking for yellow in your garden, enjoy the bright gold markings on stiffly held branches of Tsuga c. ‘Aurea Compacta’. This dwarf upright form is also known as ‘Everitt’s Golden’. Finally, a variety for those in search of a vertical accent suitable for planters or as a low maintenance hedge or screen is Tsuga c. ‘Monler’ (Emerald Fountain). Emerald Fountain has a dense branching structure creating a columnar evergreen. Retaining its dark green foliage throughout the winter, ‘Monler’ finishes nicely at 6 to 10 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide making it suitable for most gardens.

Native from Nova Scotia to Minnesota Canadian Hemlocks have recently been the target of some negative publicity. Woolly Adelgid has severely limited the planting, marketability and growing of hemlocks. This aphidlike insect has posed a serious threat to the hemlock population for some 80+ years. Known in New Jersey since 1978 where they were first found in Medford, Burlington County. Alas, there is hope. Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub insect control, 1.47% Merit, is an easy “mix and pour” at the base of a tree solution. So start rejuvenating the hemlock population today.

A Pedestrian Shrub No More

For years I have thought Dwarf Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca ‘Conica’) to be the most overused plant in the plant kingdom. Seen far too often as foundation entrance pieces, a vertical accent in a planter or dumped on either side of a front door as a holiday garnish. These solutions are easy, lack imagination and seem all too pedestrian to me. Significant strides have been made and various flavors are now available to gardeners looking for cultivars whose heritage is derived from Picea glauca (White Spruce). Dwarf Alberta or Dwarf White Spruce has its “Roots”, literally, from that of the more majestic conifer. This “natural dwarf”, as Michael Dirr describes, “was found by J.G. Jack and Alfred Rehder at Lake Laggan, Alberta, Canada in 1904 as they awaited a train to bring them back to the Arnold Arboretum.” Ever since then, it seems, almost every home in America has found a way to adorn some part of their landscape with one of these dwarf spruce. Having said this, today there are many alternatives or cultivars available to the public to satisfy the urge of having a diminutive spruce with a pyramidal habit on their property. Many of which are far more exciting, offering additional attributes than just a small, green pyramid.

While there are a number of dwarf forms of white spruce I am limiting this article to those that share the common characteristics of an upright form with a pyramid appearance. However, these little guys will have a sense of style associated with them. Picea glauca ‘Rainbow’s End’ is an exciting cultivar with great seasonal interest. In the spring, the new growth is light green, no arguments that this is not extraordinary; however, the second flush of growth in the summer is remarkable. Bright, lemon-yellow new growth emerges and is showcased with the older, darker green foliage behind it. This is a mutation that was found at Iseli Nursery, the conifer capital of the world, in 1978. Picea glauca ‘Pixie Dust’ is similar to ‘Rainbow’s End’ with its colorful growth spurts, although this one has almost microscopic advancements in the garden. ‘Pixie Dust’ is perfect for planters, rock gardens or anywhere a tiny colorful pyramid is needed for a great garden accent. Picea glauca ‘Sanders Blue’ has an attractive, slate blue appearance. It reminds me of a quilt with a patchwork or greens and blues. Picea glauca ‘Blue Wonder’ is developing into the answer for an Alberta that is blue. While it is quite better than some of the others which have been offered, it’s still not quite perfect. However, it is distinctively more blue than most and looks great when coupled with perennials and annuals in container gardens. Finally, an alternative to the more pedestrian Dwarf Alberta Spruce, Picea glauca ‘Jean’s Dilly’ is a dwarf of a dwarf. Pronounced John’s Dilly and named for Jean Iseli, founder of Iseli Nursery, this remarkable little pyramid has shorter, thinner needles than its predecessors. During the growing season its needles area arranged in a distinctive twist. Spring growth starts later than other ‘Conica’ types and ‘Jean’s Dilly’ grows two thirds the rate of ‘Conica’. Found at Iseli Nursery in 1981 this diminutive form was aptly named by Jean’s brother Andre. I mention this form because even though it is a green form its tiny structure lends itself well to container gardening. Situated in small numbers, you could mix perennials, annuals or deciduous materials amongst them and easily create a small garden wonderland.

Requirements for Alberta’s are similar to most other conifers. Full sun and well drained, acidic soils are key to their success. Stephen Schuckman, New Jersey Certified Tree Expert, Horticulturist, colleague, former employer and long time friend, reminded me that it is my due diligence to inform those interested in planting Dwarf Alberta Spruce of a serious pitfall. Red spider-mites! As Steve says, “Alberta’s are a condominium for spider-mites”. While he is correct, the problem is preventable and curable through the use of many over the counter insecticides.

Inspired by Chihuly

Tucked away in New York City’s Bronx borough lies an arcadia for plant lovers. The New York Botanical Garden is home to some of the worlds most prodigious horticultural delights. Founded in 1891 the gardens are a leading educational center, a National Historic Landmark and “a grand museum of plants.” The famed Enid A. Haupt Conservatory sits among the 250 acres and is one of the more recognizable pieces of architecture in New York. Specialty gardens are numerous satisfying herb, perennial and rose enthusiasts alike just to name a few. However, my favorite is the Benenson Ornamental Conifer Garden. As if all this isn’t enough, last October the gardens had even more to offer. Dale Chihuly, famed blown glass artist who has revolutionized the Studio Glass movement had an incredible body of work situated amongst the living. Chihuly’s vibrant colors and creative forms are often implemented by his teams of artisans who cultivate his visions, crafting some of the most complex sculptures imaginable. Part of the allurement of art is the interpretation that one can take away from the piece. One particular piece that Chihuly crafted was titled “Reeds.” And while these gorgeous, red reeds stood strong against the conservatory, towering at over ten feet, I could only think to myself that they also reminded me of Cornus alba (Tatarian or Red Twig Dogwood).

Introduced in the mid 1700’s and native to Siberia, Manchuria and northern Korea, Tatarian Dogwood is a plant useful in a number of applications. Benefiting from full sun to part shade the species performs exceedingly well in almost any soil type. Tolerant of some wet feet and clay soils, Tatarian types are at their best when planted in larger groupings. Remember Monosweeping! Planting a grove or border of this dogwood creates seasonal interest which can captivate ones attention at any time of year.

Without question this plants popularity is attributed to the intense red color markings of its bark throughout the winter. Blood red stems darken as the months get colder. One of the more stunning winter interest gardens you can see is the deep red stems shooting out of the ground surrounded by fresh, powdery snow. Going forward, spring’s warmer weather begins to soften the colorful red markings of the bark, gradually turning its stems from red to green. Rising temperatures also cause buds to swell unwrapping green (sometimes variegated) leaves which are egg-shaped in form. Late spring into early summer the yellowish-white flowers arrive and are almost two inches in diameter. These “flat-topped cymes” as Dirr describes, are more impressive than others may lead you to believe. The fruit (drupes) make their way in mid summer and are generally white with a touch of blue. Finally, to complete our circle, is the fall color which can often be an impressive reddish-purple.

Several interesting cultivars are readily available and noteworthy. Cornus a. ‘Elegantissima’ (Variegated Red-Twig Dogwood) has leaves which are more of a gray-green surrounded by an irregular creamy-white band on the outside edges. This cultivar finishes at about six to eight feet, a full two to four feet smaller than the species. Cornus a. ‘Gouchaulti’ (Mottled Dogwood) has a pink overtone to its mottled yellowish-white and green leaves and grows a bit wider, three to seven feet, as it matures. Finally, Cornus a. ‘Bailhalo’ (Ivory Halo Dogwood) has a sensational contrast of light green leaves with creamy white edges. More of a compact grower, this habitat plant will next spring adorn a grouping of Cedrus atlantica ‘Horstman’ at my home.

Chihuly’s upright “Reeds” undoubtedly reminded me of the erect, youthful stems of Tatarian Dogwood. His creative designs and remarkable colors have heightened my game and influenced me to work more colorful and playful architecture into my own landscape refraining from using some of the more pedestrian cement pottery and statuary you see far too often. One final thought: thinning out the oldest canes from year to year almost guarantees you the expected explosion of red color overcompensating for the doldrums of winter.