Faster than Brigadoon

Famed director and Oscar winner, Vincente Minnelli, used the cinema to tell heartfelt, realistic and compelling stories. A filmography that would impress the likes of Steven Spielberg and Martin Scorsese, includes Ziegfeld Follies, Father of the Bride, An American in Paris, Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse and Oscar winner Gigi. However, arguably one of his greatest tales took place in the 18^th century, on the Scottish Highlands, and was brought to life by Gene Kelly, Van Johnson and Cyd Charisse. Brigadoon is a “time warp fantasy that depicts the ethereal village materializing from the mists only one day each hundred years.” So where am I going with such a sub reference? It has been said that patience is a virtue. Fellow gardeners and plants people know this adage all too well. Some annuals take an entire season to come to fruition. Perennials can come into their own after two or three years. Deciduous shrubs and conifers can develop into handsome specimens after several years. But a tree that has been known to take ten to fifteen years to flower, that’s just crazy! Or is it?

Davidia involucrata, Dove-tree or Handkerchief tree, might not take as long to flower as it does for Brigadoon to reappear, but it sure feels like it. Introduced in 1904 and native to China, this tree will always be remembered once you see it flower. The foliage is a bright green with pronounced veins and a silky underside. Zone hardy from 6 to 8, Davidia, will provide the outline of a broad pyramid reaching heights of twenty to forty feet. Davidia’s bark has cinnamon markings and during its adolescent years is very smooth. Many fellow plants people, when asked to identify my specimen in my yard, came up short and identified it as a Tilia (Linden). Another great tree to be discussed at a later date, Tilia does look similar when young. Chunky, swollen, larger buds have formed on my tree and I can hardy wait for them to explode this spring. Golf ball size fruit mature in the fall and dangle on its winter silhouette. The outside of this golf ball is greenish-tan with red speckles and a very hard, single nut sits inside. But let’s face it… it’s the flower, or bracts, you will remember most. Two huge, creamy-white to pure white bracts of unequal size announce themselves in May, providing an indelible introduction. Set between the bracts is a pincushion of white filaments and red anthers. I find it interesting to note that the lower bract is always larger than the upper one. And these aren’t small bracts as they can range in size from four to eight inches each. Few pests, if any, plague the illustrious Handkerchief tree. Full sun to part shade and well-drained soil are conducive to a Dove trees success.

Three cultivars are noteworthy. Davidia involucrata ‘Sonoma’ is in my front yard for no other reason than it can bloom within the first two or three years. Yes, I’m a bit impatient. ‘Columnaris’ is what you might expect… a columnar Dove tree. Finally, Davidia ‘Crimson Spring’ has crimson-red spring foliage. Introduced by Rippingale Nursery, this cultivar is so new it has even escaped my grasp.

While the wait for Davidia flowers can be long, the anticipation for other plants to flower can prove to be somewhat lamentable or even sickening. The Silversword, Argyroxiphium sandwicense ssp. macrocephalum, a rare member of the sunflower family, found on the slopes of Haleakala National park in Maui, can take decades before developing a flowering stalk. And after it flowers…it dies! And what about the recent reintroduction of Amorphophallus titanum, Corpse or Stink plant, that the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens showcased last August. This stinky, botanical wonder, native to Sumatra, can also exceed a decade before flowering. Following which is rank-smelling foliage that entices bugs to lay their eggs which would typically do so in dead animals. So in retrospect, the prospect of having a beautiful tree with an abundant of attributes contributing to year-round interest that can take just a few years to achieve isn’t so bad after all. Hopefully this article will inspire you to run out and get your hands on a Davidia tree. If you are so inspired, perhaps you can pay homage to Brigadoon by mass planting some Erica (Heather) around your Dove tree, referencing “The Heather On the Hill”, a pastoral ballet in the movie. While the Handkerchief tree can take some time to impress, remember another old adage: Good things come to those who wait.

Planting Trees & Shrubs 101

A few months ago there was a great cover story in the Gardener News about “Mulched Volcanoes”. The article depicted one of the many inaccuracies or misconceptions about how people incorrectly install plant material. Far too often plant material is set into the ground either too high or below grade. Various mulches are used as decorative coverings at a depth, in some cases, of 8-10 inches. Now that the weather is breaking, I thought it be helpful to point out some basic mechanics of how to properly install and care for our green friends.

One of the first things any good garden will have is a plan. Don’t be capricious about placing your larger, future plant material. Leave the bright colors of annuals for your more whimsical plantings. Consideration for sunlight and proximity to surroundings should always be at the forefront of your decision making. Take notice of water issues that are either too wet or too dry and always consider Deer! They simply will punish you if you don’t plan for them.

The debate as to which is better to plant, B&B (Balled and Burlapped) materials or containerized plants will always be a hot topic filled with opinions predicated on past experiences. Either way, the mechanics of slipping the root system back into the ground are the same. Today’s popular belief is to dig a hole slightly larger than twice the size of the root ball. Consider amending your native soil with new top soil, humus or well-rotted leaf compost. Large quantities of humus can help cure heavy clay soil and fast draining sand while making your plants feel as though they are having a spa day. The depth of the hole should not be any deeper than the root ball itself. “It is better to plant slightly higher rather than lower than the tree was growing prior to the move” (Rutgers Cooperative Extension). B&B trees should have the top of the burlap either folded back or I like to cut the top half off all together. Burlap that is not folded or cut off can wick moisture away from the plant. Larger B&B trees will have a wire basket around the root ball. If possible, cut the top half of the cage off. DO NOT TRY TO WRESTLE THE CAGE OFF FROM THE ROOT BALL! This will only create a sloppy root mass and potentially harm the tree, diminishing the success of the tree. The mechanics above should only be done after you have decided that the tree will no longer be moved around. This includes finding the best side of the tree and rotating the ball to that position. After all is said and done, remember to mulch around your plant material at a depth of 2 to 3 inches keeping the mulch away from the bark of the plant. Stake larger plant material and avoid getting too close with the lawn mower or treading to heavily over the root systems.

Deep watering is also important. Sprinkler systems only target the top few inches of soil line. Don’t rely too heavily on them unless you have specific zones for landscape beds and zones for turf. The best way to water plants is to apply it at a rate that the soil will absorb without runoff.

When you select plants this spring remember to select well proportioned plants. Avoid root balls that are abnormally small, dented or loose from the plant. By the same token, containerized material should not have roots spiraling around the top of the pot or have roots growing out the drainage holes on the bottom of the pot. Inspect the foliage and limbs of plant material. Bright, healthy looking foliage is what you’re after. Plants that are losing leaves, turning yellow or brown or look fatigued or stressed should be avoided. You spend the time weekly to inspect produce at a supermarket so be discriminating on your plant purchases as well. After all your plant purchase will last far longer than a meal will.

Finally, remember that April 27, the last Friday in April, is Arbor Day. Hopefully this article will inspire you to become a “Tree Hugger.” Take the time to further your education and visit Arborday.org. The website provides great tips, including tree care and planting as well as a terrific identification guide. The National Arbor Day Foundation currently has on their site 10 free trees when you become a member. An incentive to help contribute to the 8.5 million trees members planted last year.

Socrates May Have Liked These Hemlocks

Most of us have heard the story of Socrates and his untimely death, at age 70. Standing before a jury and fellow Athenians, Socrates was sentenced to death in 339 BC. His anti-democratic views and impious acts lead to a guilty decision, a vote of 280 to 220, thus providing a suicide story for the ages. What most people don’t realize however is that the poison hemlock consumed was not the evergreen type, Tsuga, but rather a deadly, poisonous herb of the Apiaceae family, Conium maculatum. Mistaken for fennel, parsley or wild carrot, poison hemlock has tiny white flowers clustered in umbels. Native to Europe and the Mediterranean poison hemlock, when crushed, emits a rank, unpleasant odor not the anise or liquorice smells associated with the likes of fennel. Evergreen types of Hemlock look nothing like the herbaceous types.

Tsuga Canadensis, Canadian (Eastern) Hemlock, has long been a staple for the industry because of their tolerance to shady locations. Eastern Hemlocks, left to their own devices, can achieve heights of 50+ feet and 25+ in width. An exception to the rule, this conifer can be planted close to one another with hopes of creating a dense hedge line. However, spruce varieties can not achieve the same results. A candidate for moist, not saturated, areas Hemlocks have gorgeous leaf color complete with dark greens and two glaucous bands underneath. Suitable wherever drainage is good, keep the parent plant and its offspring away from windy areas and be considerate during times of drought.

Cultivars available to gardeners today are plentiful, exciting and diverse. Options include mounding, columnar, variegated, prostrate and globose types. One cultivar that I am asked about time and again, especially by those who visit our home, is Tsuga canadensis ‘Albospica’. A treemendous open growing hemlock which has snowy, white- tipped leaves almost the entire year. This unique attribute stands out against its darker, more mature, foliage. Planted on the north side of our home is a grove of them defining a corner and embedding the glorious earth tones and exfoliating, puzzle-like bark of a Stewartia pseudocamellia (Japanese Stewartia). The texture and colors that the two offer are only heightened with an occasional snowfall. Cultivated since 1866 and still going strong. Another one of the variegated types and often confused with ‘Albospica’ is Tsuga c. ‘Gentsch White’. A variegated globe which also offers white branch tips. Suitable for container gardening or as a small punctuation amongst your foundation plantings, this one benefits from routine pruning. We have Otto Gentsch in Long Island, New York to thank for this one. To round out the white-tipped cultivars that I am in favor of is Tsuga c. ‘Frostie’. Phenomenal white foliage with thin branches enhances its delicate texture, lending itself again to shade gardening. Look for slight pink winter markings as an added bonus. For those of you looking for yellow in your garden, enjoy the bright gold markings on stiffly held branches of Tsuga c. ‘Aurea Compacta’. This dwarf upright form is also known as ‘Everitt’s Golden’. Finally, a variety for those in search of a vertical accent suitable for planters or as a low maintenance hedge or screen is Tsuga c. ‘Monler’ (Emerald Fountain). Emerald Fountain has a dense branching structure creating a columnar evergreen. Retaining its dark green foliage throughout the winter, ‘Monler’ finishes nicely at 6 to 10 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide making it suitable for most gardens.

Native from Nova Scotia to Minnesota Canadian Hemlocks have recently been the target of some negative publicity. Woolly Adelgid has severely limited the planting, marketability and growing of hemlocks. This aphidlike insect has posed a serious threat to the hemlock population for some 80+ years. Known in New Jersey since 1978 where they were first found in Medford, Burlington County. Alas, there is hope. Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub insect control, 1.47% Merit, is an easy “mix and pour” at the base of a tree solution. So start rejuvenating the hemlock population today.

A Pedestrian Shrub No More

For years I have thought Dwarf Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca ‘Conica’) to be the most overused plant in the plant kingdom. Seen far too often as foundation entrance pieces, a vertical accent in a planter or dumped on either side of a front door as a holiday garnish. These solutions are easy, lack imagination and seem all too pedestrian to me. Significant strides have been made and various flavors are now available to gardeners looking for cultivars whose heritage is derived from Picea glauca (White Spruce). Dwarf Alberta or Dwarf White Spruce has its “Roots”, literally, from that of the more majestic conifer. This “natural dwarf”, as Michael Dirr describes, “was found by J.G. Jack and Alfred Rehder at Lake Laggan, Alberta, Canada in 1904 as they awaited a train to bring them back to the Arnold Arboretum.” Ever since then, it seems, almost every home in America has found a way to adorn some part of their landscape with one of these dwarf spruce. Having said this, today there are many alternatives or cultivars available to the public to satisfy the urge of having a diminutive spruce with a pyramidal habit on their property. Many of which are far more exciting, offering additional attributes than just a small, green pyramid.

While there are a number of dwarf forms of white spruce I am limiting this article to those that share the common characteristics of an upright form with a pyramid appearance. However, these little guys will have a sense of style associated with them. Picea glauca ‘Rainbow’s End’ is an exciting cultivar with great seasonal interest. In the spring, the new growth is light green, no arguments that this is not extraordinary; however, the second flush of growth in the summer is remarkable. Bright, lemon-yellow new growth emerges and is showcased with the older, darker green foliage behind it. This is a mutation that was found at Iseli Nursery, the conifer capital of the world, in 1978. Picea glauca ‘Pixie Dust’ is similar to ‘Rainbow’s End’ with its colorful growth spurts, although this one has almost microscopic advancements in the garden. ‘Pixie Dust’ is perfect for planters, rock gardens or anywhere a tiny colorful pyramid is needed for a great garden accent. Picea glauca ‘Sanders Blue’ has an attractive, slate blue appearance. It reminds me of a quilt with a patchwork or greens and blues. Picea glauca ‘Blue Wonder’ is developing into the answer for an Alberta that is blue. While it is quite better than some of the others which have been offered, it’s still not quite perfect. However, it is distinctively more blue than most and looks great when coupled with perennials and annuals in container gardens. Finally, an alternative to the more pedestrian Dwarf Alberta Spruce, Picea glauca ‘Jean’s Dilly’ is a dwarf of a dwarf. Pronounced John’s Dilly and named for Jean Iseli, founder of Iseli Nursery, this remarkable little pyramid has shorter, thinner needles than its predecessors. During the growing season its needles area arranged in a distinctive twist. Spring growth starts later than other ‘Conica’ types and ‘Jean’s Dilly’ grows two thirds the rate of ‘Conica’. Found at Iseli Nursery in 1981 this diminutive form was aptly named by Jean’s brother Andre. I mention this form because even though it is a green form its tiny structure lends itself well to container gardening. Situated in small numbers, you could mix perennials, annuals or deciduous materials amongst them and easily create a small garden wonderland.

Requirements for Alberta’s are similar to most other conifers. Full sun and well drained, acidic soils are key to their success. Stephen Schuckman, New Jersey Certified Tree Expert, Horticulturist, colleague, former employer and long time friend, reminded me that it is my due diligence to inform those interested in planting Dwarf Alberta Spruce of a serious pitfall. Red spider-mites! As Steve says, “Alberta’s are a condominium for spider-mites”. While he is correct, the problem is preventable and curable through the use of many over the counter insecticides.

Inspired by Chihuly

Tucked away in New York City’s Bronx borough lies an arcadia for plant lovers. The New York Botanical Garden is home to some of the worlds most prodigious horticultural delights. Founded in 1891 the gardens are a leading educational center, a National Historic Landmark and “a grand museum of plants.” The famed Enid A. Haupt Conservatory sits among the 250 acres and is one of the more recognizable pieces of architecture in New York. Specialty gardens are numerous satisfying herb, perennial and rose enthusiasts alike just to name a few. However, my favorite is the Benenson Ornamental Conifer Garden. As if all this isn’t enough, last October the gardens had even more to offer. Dale Chihuly, famed blown glass artist who has revolutionized the Studio Glass movement had an incredible body of work situated amongst the living. Chihuly’s vibrant colors and creative forms are often implemented by his teams of artisans who cultivate his visions, crafting some of the most complex sculptures imaginable. Part of the allurement of art is the interpretation that one can take away from the piece. One particular piece that Chihuly crafted was titled “Reeds.” And while these gorgeous, red reeds stood strong against the conservatory, towering at over ten feet, I could only think to myself that they also reminded me of Cornus alba (Tatarian or Red Twig Dogwood).

Introduced in the mid 1700’s and native to Siberia, Manchuria and northern Korea, Tatarian Dogwood is a plant useful in a number of applications. Benefiting from full sun to part shade the species performs exceedingly well in almost any soil type. Tolerant of some wet feet and clay soils, Tatarian types are at their best when planted in larger groupings. Remember Monosweeping! Planting a grove or border of this dogwood creates seasonal interest which can captivate ones attention at any time of year.

Without question this plants popularity is attributed to the intense red color markings of its bark throughout the winter. Blood red stems darken as the months get colder. One of the more stunning winter interest gardens you can see is the deep red stems shooting out of the ground surrounded by fresh, powdery snow. Going forward, spring’s warmer weather begins to soften the colorful red markings of the bark, gradually turning its stems from red to green. Rising temperatures also cause buds to swell unwrapping green (sometimes variegated) leaves which are egg-shaped in form. Late spring into early summer the yellowish-white flowers arrive and are almost two inches in diameter. These “flat-topped cymes” as Dirr describes, are more impressive than others may lead you to believe. The fruit (drupes) make their way in mid summer and are generally white with a touch of blue. Finally, to complete our circle, is the fall color which can often be an impressive reddish-purple.

Several interesting cultivars are readily available and noteworthy. Cornus a. ‘Elegantissima’ (Variegated Red-Twig Dogwood) has leaves which are more of a gray-green surrounded by an irregular creamy-white band on the outside edges. This cultivar finishes at about six to eight feet, a full two to four feet smaller than the species. Cornus a. ‘Gouchaulti’ (Mottled Dogwood) has a pink overtone to its mottled yellowish-white and green leaves and grows a bit wider, three to seven feet, as it matures. Finally, Cornus a. ‘Bailhalo’ (Ivory Halo Dogwood) has a sensational contrast of light green leaves with creamy white edges. More of a compact grower, this habitat plant will next spring adorn a grouping of Cedrus atlantica ‘Horstman’ at my home.

Chihuly’s upright “Reeds” undoubtedly reminded me of the erect, youthful stems of Tatarian Dogwood. His creative designs and remarkable colors have heightened my game and influenced me to work more colorful and playful architecture into my own landscape refraining from using some of the more pedestrian cement pottery and statuary you see far too often. One final thought: thinning out the oldest canes from year to year almost guarantees you the expected explosion of red color overcompensating for the doldrums of winter.

A Symbol of the Season

Finland (Lapland) has Santa Claus, Germany has its Christmas markets and Russia is noted for their traditional, handmade Christmas ornaments. But who has bragging rights for the first decorated Christmas tree? Located in Northeastern Europe, nestled between Estonia, Russia, Belarus and Lithuania lays the country Latvia. Riga, Latvia has by many been credited with first decorating an evergreen tree in the year 1510. This popular holiday tradition, decorating Christmas trees, may have started here, but today in the United States we celebrate by purchasing nearly 35 million Real Christmas Trees every year as reported by the National Christmas Tree Association.

Sold commercially in the United States since about 1850, Christmas trees have been subject to many speculations and myths. First, of the nearly 35 million trees sold each year, 95 percent are shipped and sold directly from Christmas tree farms. California, Oregon, Michigan, Washington, Wisconsin, Pennsylvania and North Carolina are among the leading producers with Oregon consistently ranking toward the top. Typically, the best selling trees are Scotch pine, Douglas fir, Noble fir, Fraser fir, Balsam fir and White pine for reasons which will be discussed further in the article. More than 2,000 trees, on average, are planted per acre of which half to two thirds will survive. It takes an average of six to ten years to obtain a mature six to seven foot tree, fighting the elements of rain, wind, ice and drought to name a few. There are more than 21,000 Christmas tree growers in North America and nearly 12,000 “cut-your-own” farms. Finally, 2-3 seedlings are planted for every harvested Christmas tree. So much for the statistics.

Much more is needed to produce the quintessential Christmas tree than simply taking a seedling, planting it, and hoping for the best. Science and technology have largely improved upon the early days of 1851 when Mark Carr opened the first Christmas tree retail lot in New York. Today’s trees are sought out and “created” to ensure that the most perfect, predictable and “hardy” tree will endure to its final destination, your home. This past summer while I was visiting nurseries and tagging nursery stock for next spring, I had the opportunity to visit a Christmas tree grower in Oregon. Silver Mountain Christmas Trees in Oregon is one of the largest producers of Christmas trees in the United States. Owner and operator Jim Heater was kind enough to show his operation and educate me on the science of growing the perfect tree. First, seed orchards are created to find elite seeds. To obtain these seeds cones must be present and autumn is the right time of year to harvest. Careful hands pollinate and cross pollinate several families to produce stronger trees. When the cones are mature they are picked and then thrashed to remove the seed which are then cleaned. Seeds are then planted precisely by a Vacuum Precision Seeder which spaces out seedlings, giving them equal shares of sunlight, moisture and space, thus eliminating problems from being too close. Grown in seed beds for two years, these future trees are then uprooted and replanted again into a transplant bed. A Reciprocating Undercutter Wrencher, another patented piece of machinery that is sold throughout the world by Silver Mountain, root prunes underneath the ground, thus creating more fibrous feeder roots able to take in more nutrients. Eventually these small trees are brought to production beds where they will continue to be nurtured and evaluated. After all “a good start ensures, healthy, stronger plants.” Over the next 6 to 10 years, Jim’s trees will continue to be monitored until they are ready to be harvested. Hand culturing begins once the trees hit his production fields. This is done to create a nice full pyramid, for which many demand at market. Shearing the trees properly helps create an almost perfect product for an imperfect profession. Double topping helps eliminate competing leaders, creating a nice, straight top. This is done on an individual basis and thus is very labor intensive. Grading crews evaluate quality and height and harvesting starts in November. Silver Mountain can harvest 5,000 trees a day as crews work almost around the clock. The most remarkable part of the harvest though is his ability to work over any terrain or through almost any weather. Helicopters are used to pull trees out of his fields, thus eliminating damage to his trees.

Whether you purchase a tree from a “cut-your-own” farm or garden center there are many choices to consider. Fragrance, needle retention, texture and color dictate many a decision. Balsam fir (Abies balsamea) has short, flat, long lasting needles that are dark green with a silver cast. Typically, this tree is associated with having that “traditional Christmas tree smell.” Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) smells like oranges. Needles are blue to dark green, about 1 ½” and also hold their needles well. Named for David Douglas who studied the tree in the 1800’s, this tree can live for a thousand years. White Pine (Pinus strobus) has soft, long, blue-green needles with a very full appearance. This tree has very little fragrance and doesn’t hold heavy ornaments as well. Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris) has stiff branching, dark green needles that are about an inch long and hold ornaments very well. Fraser fir (Abies fraseri) has quickly become the standard for Christmas trees. Dark green-blue needles, about an inch long, adorn this pyramidal-shaped tree. Good fragrance and excellent needle retention have catapulted this tree to stardom over the last decade. Last but not least is Noble fir (Abies procera). If I could liken a tree for a moment to a car, than this is your Ferrari. Bluish-green needles that are almost rubbery to the touch never seem to shed on your floor. Stiff branches hold heavier ornaments and it has a great fragrance.

Another way to enjoy your holiday is by planting a b&b tree. B&B (ball and burlap) trees are live trees that you can later plant in your yard. Though it can be more of an arduous task the rewards are numerous. Thoughtfully pick a location in your yard suitable for a conifer. Remember that most conifers, a cone-bearing tree or shrub, do not like shade. While there are a few exceptions, those listed previously enjoy more sun than shade. Remember that these species trees are all majestic giants. They will some day reach for the sky. So give them plenty of room and try not to plant them in a hedge line five feet apart from one another as this will have a pejorative affect on your landscape. Be mindful that live trees are becoming more popular. Go to your local plant purveyor and ask to purchase your tree and have it delivered or picked up closer to Christmas. Once your tree is home place it in your garage for a day or two, so as to slowly acclimate the tree from the temperature outside from that of inside. Try not to have your live tree in your house for more than five to seven days and reverse the procedure when you plant your tree after the holidays. Dig the hole prior to the ground freezing as this will facilitate your planting.

Evergreens around the holiday conjure up feelings of nostalgia, longing for our childhood past. Cut trees are multi faceted as they can be recycled and used as mulch after the holiday season. Live trees not only provide a habitat for wildlife but also grow as our families do. Wherever you purchase your tree this year be cognizant of its height as trees look smaller outside than they do inside your home. Check for needle retention by pulling on the limbs to see if any needles fall off. Remember to put a fresh cut on your cut tree and keep it well irrigated during the first ten days. A cut tree can consume more than a quart of water per day. Choose a cool location away from drafts and any nearby heat source such as a fireplace, radiator or stove. Feel great about your purchase knowing that this year alone nearly 73 million new Christmas trees will be planted. Finally, remember that cut trees came from mother earth…so be kind and recycle when possible. Consumers can locate the nearest recycling program by logging onto www.realchristmastrees.org or by calling 1-800-CLEANUP.

Tree of Life

Ficus carica (Common Fig) is one of those fun plants that gardeners go to great lengths to grow and protect. Perhaps it’s because of the oversized, textural foliage, the abundance of tasty fruit or the challenge of over-wintering a subtropical plant. Whatever the reason, gardeners alike have owned up to the challenge of raising their fig tree, honing their agricultural skills and treating it as a member of “La Familia.” “Borderline Hardy” is a term used in the industry warning of a plants’ survivability in a given part of the country. The limits of the average annual minimum temperature define specific zones. Most of New Jersey has a hardiness zone of 6 (-5 to +5F) with exceptions in Northwest New Jersey being 5 (-15 to -10F) and coastal and southern Jersey being 7 (5 to 10F). This being said, fig trees are borderline hardy.

Remnants of common fig have been found in excavation sites dating back to at least 5000 B.C. Indigenous to western Asia and the eastern Mediterranean, fig trees have, for a long time, been sold, planted and survived in pockets of New Jersey. They just require a little TLC. Recently my wife and I traveled to Europe, specifically Italy, and became even more enamored with Italian culture. This being our third time to Italy, we just love the people, the culture and of course the food. In the summer no meal would be complete without some fresh fruit on the table. I had an opportunity to climb, giving you some idea of the maturity of the tree, a friend’s fig tree and harvest dessert for the family. References to fig trees have been made throughout history. One more notable and apropos, since I just returned from Italy, is in the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City. One of the central stories on the ceiling is Original Sin and the Banishment from the Garden of Eden. I’m a plant guy so I’ll leave the theological discussions for those academics. However, I will say this; there are those suggesting that the forbidden fruit may be an apple, grape, pomegranate or fig, I can say without hesitation that Michelangelo painted leaves resembling a fig tree.

Culturally fig trees require a full day of sun, prefer moist, well drained soil, but apparently are not fussy on soil makeups as they seem to sustain themselves well from light sand to heavy clay. Avoid highly acidic soils shooting for a pH between 6 and 7. Trees can sustain at 10-20 degrees Fahrenheit, although you will almost certainly have to cut the tree back to the ground from year to year leaving yourself more of a bush form than a tree form. A picturesque, deciduous tree, fig trees can reach heights of forty to fifty feet. Bright green foliage, deeply lobed with one to five sinuses is attractive and visible to almost any eye. Pollination is always a question that comes up. The common fig has flowers which are all female and thus requires no pollination. Cross pollination and the need to have a tiny wasp, Blastophaga grossorum, to pollinate do not apply here. They are necessary for the caprifig which has male and female flowers. Keep the fertilization regulated as excessive nitrogen will only encourage rank growth, sacrificing fruit. Look for varieties such as ‘Brown Turkey’, ‘Black Mission’, and ‘Kadota’ as suitable candidates for New Jersey. These are great tasting and readily available.

Finally, protecting your tree for the winter. A very good friend of mine and avid gardener, Leo Pietrantuono, has over fifty years experience handed down to him from his father and his father’s father. Some basic points to keep in mind. First you can always bring small trees, in containers, in and out every year to escape Mother Nature. For those of you who want the challenge of planting one outside, here are some basics. Look for a sunny spot against a wall and you can pick up a few degrees with reflective heat. Leo’s tip is that it’s crucial to understand that frost doesn’t kill the tree, moisture and timing do. With larger trees, tie smaller branches in clusters and bind them to larger ones getting the tree very tight. Do this only after all the leaves have dropped. Be creative with your wrapping. Some use carpet, insulation, tarps, blankets and some even build boxes around their tree. The key is to keep everything dry. Trial and error will dictate your successes and techniques. Generally, most cover their tree in late October/early November and uncover it in mid April. However, the weather will punish you if you don’t pay attention to it.

Life is made up of experiences and meant to be enjoyed. The thirty foot fig tree I climbed in Monte Di Procida outside of Naples had no less than a thousand figs on it. Sal Coppola, owner of Coppola’s restaurant in New Providence, New Jersey graciously offered his home, his family, his garden and of course his fig tree to my wife and me and with that gave us one of our life’s greatest experiences.